Classic Rock Week
Duration 6 Days » Grade Intermediate
 Classic Rock Week Photo: © Ben Winston
Classic Rock is designed for those who would like to climb some of the country's finest classic climbs graded from V Diff to VS. Based on the coffee table book of the same name, our 2-day weekend and 5-day courses in North Wales give us access to the 22 'Classic Rock' climbs located there. The 5-day course differs from the weekend only in terms of the number of routes that you get done. The course is instructed at a 1:2 ratio, which means that you spend maximum time on the rock and are paired with a climber of a similar standard. In 2004, we are also running 3-day Bank Holiday courses.
Experience Required
Classic Rock is suitable for those with previous rock climbing experience, who are comfortable tying on, belaying, removing protection and abseiling. The 5-day course gives you the opportunity to learn how to lead a rock climb.
Typical routes climbed
Described below is a selection of the very best routes in North Wales, many of which are included in the Classic Rock book.
Grooved Arête (VD), Tryfan East Face
"As good as anything of the kind in Wales", at 560 feet, Grooved Arête is for many people, their first long mountain route. It takes an open line up ribs and grooves on the North Buttress of Tryfan.
Lot's Groove (VS), Glyder Fawr
A North facing cliff but with clean, rough rock providing good friction and large holds, 'Lot's Groove' is a superb pitch on Glyder Fach which is characterised by jamming and bridging.
Hope, Lazarus, The Arête, Grey Slab
Four possible Classic Rock 'ticks' in a day. These routes combine to make up one of Snowdonia's classic mountaineering outings, taking you to the summit of Glyder Fawr. Starting with the slabs of Hope (V Diff), Lazarus is a step up in difficulty with an exposed section on small 'pockets' at Hard Severe. The Arête is straightforward (V Diff) in an excellent position. Then it's a walk to the base of the immaculate Grey Slab (VS). Three pitches on superb rough rock, high up and with stunning views. A 15-minute walk and you're on the top of Glyder Fawr. Classic Rock indeed!
Nea (VS), Clogwyn y Grochan
The Grochan is a popular crag just above the road in the Llanberis Pass. Nea weaves its way up the left hand buttress and is an interesting climb requiring a variety of climbing techniques.
Brant (VS), Clogwyn y Grochan
"A Welsh Classic", the traversing lines of 'Brant' weaves its way through steeper terrain, before picking a line through the myriad corners and ledges which make up the upper half of the Grochan.
Crackstone Rib and Wrinkle (S and VD), Careg Wasted
Two classic open routes on mostly excellent rock characterised by positive small edges and hand holds. The crag is a popular venue in the Llanberis Pass, with a variety of routes in the low to medium grades.
Flying Buttress (HD), Dinas Cromlech
A superby positioned line up the right side of Dinas Cromlech that feels almost Alpine in character. The crux involves steep moves to access the final chimney crack.
Spiral Stairs (HD), Dinas Cromlech
This climb defines the word 'exposure'. You rarely get into positions like this at such an amiable grade. Although it can feel intimidating to traverse out around the arête on the first pitch, the holds are huge and secure, despite the polished rock. A very memorable outing.
The Cracks (HS), Dinas Mot
Catching the morning sunshine, Dinas Mot is a superb place to climb, The Cracks is the classic of the crag. Pitch 1 follows a sparsely protected slab, pitch 2 is an intricate traverse under an overhang, pitch 3 climbs perfect cracks and the final pitch, which is the crux, involves the famous "boulder problem above a sheer 250ft drop"!
Main Wall (HS), Cyrn Las
A long route with a real mountaineering feel, situated high above the Llanberis Pass on the Imposing Cyrn Las. The route follows an intricate line on superb rock up the left hand side of the cliff and is sustained, although nowhere too difficult.
Creag Duh Wall (HS), Tremadog
Tremadog is well known for being in the rain shadow of Snowdonia and is an excellent choice if it's wet in the mountains. The red rock is unique; forming angular corners, cracks and overlaps. Creagh Dhu Wall takes a prominent pillar on Craig Y Castell, one of the crags which make up the Tremadog cliffs. It weaves an intricate line in a superb and airy setting.
Mur y Niwl (VS), Craig Yr Ysfa
Although this route doesn't feature in Classic Rock or Hard Rock, it is one of the very best climbs at the grade in the area, being steep, exposed and continually difficult!
Pinnacle Wall (HS), Craig Yr Ysfa
A popular continuation climb to Mur Y Niwl, the climb wanders about, finding the easiest line and is exposed.
Information about the Course venue and accommodation, Course Director and instructional ratios, Equipment, Insurance and Inclusions and Exclusions... [read more]
Recommended reading
![[North Wales Rock, 13 kb]](/images/t/3277.jpg)
Classic Rock, Ken Wilson (Diadem)
North Wales Rock (Ground Up)
Llanberis Pass (Climbers' Club)
Ogwyn and Carneddau (Climbers' Club)
Booking
If you would like to join one of our Rock Climbing and Scrambling Courses, please proceed to on-line booking. Alternatively, you can book over the phone, call 0845 345 8848 (UK only), +44 (0) 114 276 3322 (Intl).
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