banner photo

Expeditions to the Mountains of Asia

0845 345 8848
climb@jagged-globe.co.uk

Altai Climber

Altitude 4,374m/14,350ft » Duration 16 Days » Grade 2B

Alpine-style ascents in a remote part of Mongolia, including the country's highest mountain - Mt Khuiten

Introduction

Many think or Mongolia as a land of endless rolling green grasslands, yet in the far western corner of this landlocked country dramatic glaciated peaks rise out of the steppe and form natural borders with neighbouring China and Russia.

The Altai Tavan Bogd (5 Saints) mountains are the highest peaks in the Mongol Altai Range, which stretches some 2,000km from the Gobi desert to the Greater Himalaya in Pakistan. The Five Saints include Mt Khuiten, Mongolia's highest peak, Mt Nairandal (Friendship), which marks the intersection of the borders of Russia, China and Mongolia, and Mt Snow Church (4,100m), arguably the most beautiful mountain in North East Asia. Lush alpine pastures make ideal grazing lands during the summer months and local herders bring their herds of yaks, sheep and horses, adding a cultural element to the mountains.

On this mountaineering expedition we establish a comfortable base camp besides the Potaniin Glacier, before trekking up the Potaniin Glacier to climb Mt Khuiten and Mt Nairandal from a high camp. Depending on the weather and the wishes of the team, there is also the option of climbing Malchin from base camp, or exploring the upper reaches of the Alexander Glacier, towards Mt Snow Church.

Since we introduced this expedition in 2004, we have refined the itinerary to maximise our time in the mountains and be as flexible as possible. This expedition has proven to be a rewarding and culturally fascinating experience in a remote mountain range.

The Climbs

Mt Khuiten (4,374m/14,350ft)
Khuiten means 'Cold' in Mongolian language and is the highest peak in the country. From a high camp on the Potaniin Glacier, we traverse around the base of the north west ridge into a glaciated cwm and up onto a col, before climbing south up a steep face to the true summit of Khuiten. This route was pioneered by one of the first Jagged Globe teams to visit the mountain. There are magnificent views of China and Mongolia. Return to high camp for lunch (10hrs return). Alpine Grade PD/AD.

Mt Nairandal (4,180m/13,720ft)
The triple border peak with Russia, China and Mongolia - aptly named Nairandal or 'Friendship' peak in Mongolian. An easy trek up the Potaniin Glacier from high camp, yet a real bonus to visit all of these countries in less than a minute!

Malchin (4,037m/13,240ft)
Our route up Malchin is a straightforward ascent from base camp on steep scree, though the north side of the summit drops away steeply and can be completely covered in ice. Previous teams have climbed to the summit in 4 1/2 hours.

Expedition Itinerary

Day 1-2:Fly London to Ulan Baatar via Moscow
Upon arrival in Ulan Baatar in the morning of Day 2, we transfer to the comfortable Palace Hotel and freshen up before an introductory tour of the National Capital. Ulaan Baatar means 'Red Hero' and was named with the founding of the Peoples Republic of Mongolia in 1926. We start our tour by visiting Gandan Monastery, the largest and most famous functioning monastery in Mongolia and the theological centre of Buddhism. After lunch we continue to the National History Museum for a fascinating exhibition of history from the times of Chinggis Khan and before. We return to the hotel in the late afternoon, before heading out to sample one of Mongolia's many fine restaurants for dinner. Expedition briefing over dinner.
Day 3:Day trip to Terelj National Park
Today we get out of the city and into the Mongolian countryside and the 'real' Mongolia. Terelj National Park is just over an hour's drive away and is a superb alpine area of conifer-covered hills and granite tors, with great views back towards Ulaan Baatar. A leisurely 4-hour walk takes us up Tsetseguun (2,256m), where we can expect to see lots of birds, including woodpeckers, as well as black squirrels along the way. We have a picnic lunch before returning to the vehicles thence Ulaan Baatar. Dinner then hotel overnight.
Day 4:Morning flight to Bayan Olgii, drive to National Park
We have an early morning breakfast before transferring to the airport for the flight to Bayan Olgii, Mongolia's westernmost province (5hrs). On arrival in Olgii, our local hosts treat us to lunch whilst the logistics crew make final preparations before loading the jeeps and driving westwards to the Altai Tavan Bogd National Park, an area not too dissimilar to the English Lake District. Assuming our flight arrives by early afternoon (internal flights are notoriously unreliable in Mongolia), we will drive all the way to the National Park entrance today. If the flight schedule is changed or the flight is delayed, we will split this part of the journey, rather than travel at night. The drive takes us through undulating landscape of barren stoney hills, culminating in a long distinctly U-shaped valley, which marks the boundary of the National Park. We will pass by Kazakh herding families at work and get a glimpse of a way of life which has seemingly not changed for centuries. Kazakh Yurts (known as Gers in Mongolian) are a feature of the landscape and are distinctly larger and more colourful than those used in central Mongolia. We will look forward to a good nights' sleep after this long travelling day. Tented camp overnight.
Day 5:Trek to Base Camp
This morning we load the Bactrian (two humped) camels with our gear and start the hike into our base camp by the Potaniin Glacier. Our route follows a gently rising river valley, distinctly glaciated in years gone by, before climbing a ridge for spectacular views of our objective peaks - a perfect lunch spot on lush alpine tundra. The route continues to rise gradually along the edge of ancient lateral moraine, before dropping down to our base camp besides the glacier. The sight of the base camp gers is welcome, and warm mugs of tea with a backdrop of magnificent peaks stretching along the glacier. A fine end to a day's trekking. Gear check, then dinner. Tented camp overnight.
Day 6:Acclimatisation 'Russian' border ridge walk
Sun hits our base camp just after eight in the morning and after a good breakfast we trek north west up the valley to a cairn with a giant sheep's horns on top at c3,000m. From here, we continue on to a high point on the ridge at c3,600m, from where there are superb views north into Russia and all around the Tavan Bogd mountains (and our objectives, except Nairandal , which is hidden behind Malchin). The ridge is very broad and rises slowly to its high point, providing a steady climb and excellent acclimatisation. 5-6 hours round trip back to BC. In the afternoon, we will practice roping up for glacier travel and do some fixed rope work, before organising our gear for the move to high camp tomorrow. Tented camp overnight.
Day 7:Move to High Camp
If the weather is good, we will make an early start to move to our high camp on the Potaniin Glacier. Our route starts by following the moraine wall for about 1hr, before dropping onto the dry glacier, roping up, and proceeding into the middle of the glacier. The route takes us up the gently rising Potaniin Glacier for 8km, through crevasse fields. High camp is situated on the Khuiten side of the glacier, in a sheltered 'snow scoop', just below the second rocky island of the rognon (3,662m/6-7hrs). After setting up camp and having lunch, the afternoon is free to rest, or explore the rocks of the rock pinnacle. Dinner then an early night in preparation for tomorrow's climb.
Day 8:Ascent of Khuiten (4,374m)
We make an alpine start to make the most of a good night's freeze. We set out from camp and cross the Potaniin Glacier, roped up as there are a number of big crevasses just out of high camp. We traverse around the base of the north west ridge into a glaciated cwm. From here, we head south east up to a col (4,124m), then south up a steep face to the true summit of Khuiten. This direct route has been used successfully by previous Jagged Globe teams, who have made the ascent in between 3 1/2 and 6 hours, depending on the snow conditions. The views are magnificent in all directions, with distinctly different landscapes in the three countries.
Day 9:Ascent of Nairandal (4,180m)
We can get away with a later start this morning and trek to the end of the Potaniin Glacier. The spectacular views and opportunities to visit so many countries, in such a short space of time, make it all worthwhile. After a breakfast snack, we return to high camp, break camp then head down the Potaniin Glacier to base camp arriving mid afternoon. The lush alpine grass and base camp gers are a welcome sight after a few days on the ice! Celebratory dinner tonight.
Day 10:Weather day/rest day
A rest day back in base camp will be most welcome today, unless the weather looks good and the team is keen to bag another peak immediately.
Day 11:Ascent of Malchin (4,037m)
Previous Jagged Globe teams have climbed Malchin from base camp in a shortish day (4 1/2 hours to the summit). At just over 4,000m, this is another worthwhile peak. Alternatively, the group may opt to trek up the Alexander Glacier towards Snow Church today.
Day 12:Depart Base Camp
This morning we pack up camp and leave our comfortable gers. It is a pleasant walk back to the National Park entrance with daypacks and a picnic lunch. The route out offers views of lower reaches of the Potaniin Valley and herds of horses, yaks and camels. We meet the jeeps and camp near the park entrance this evening. We also have the opportunity to meet a Golden Eagle Hunter and his family either today or tomorrow, which is probaly the cultural highlight of the trip. These massive birds of prey are used by herders for hunting in the wintertime, a practice passed on through the generations.
Day 13:Return to Olgii
Today's drive is 180km back to Olgii town. We travel at an easy pace taking most, if not every, opportunity to visit local herding families. Picnic lunch along the way before arriving Olgii in the late afternoon. Afterwards we can make the most of exploring this Kazakh town. The provincial museum has a fascinating collection of displays of the region's history and culture. From here it is a short walk to the town market - or Bazaar - a treasure trove of photo and shopping possibilities. In the evening we have a traditional Kazakh dinner and say farewell to our local hosts.
Day 14:Flight to Ulaan Baatar
After breakfast with our local hosts we fly back to the capital, Ulaan Baatar. Transfer to the Palace hotel, before dinner, then a night on the town for any would-be revellers.
Day 15:At leisure in Ulaan Baatar
Today is free to explore Ulaan Baatar; museums, souvenir shopping, café crawling are all good options. For those with extra energy, activities such as mountain biking can be arranged for a nominal fee. In the early evening we will experience a fabulous performance of traditional Mongolian song and dance by a local dance troupe, followed by a farewell dinner to cap off this Mongolian odyssey.
Day 16:Departure
Depart Ulaan Baatar to fly back to London Heathrow, via Moscow.

PLEASE NOTE: This is Adventure Travel in a remote mountain region and we cannot guarantee that you will be able to make all the climbs in the above itinerary! Weather conditions, internal flight delays, road conditions, vehicle breakdowns and the health and fitness of climbers may all contribute to changes. The Expedition Leader will try to ensure that the trip runs according to plan, but an easy-going nature is an asset!

Acclimatisation

Approximate altitude profile of Altai Climber: Altai Climber altitude profile, 14 kb
Please note: This profile does not represent the gradient of the mountain!

Leadership

Experienced mountaineers, guides and instructors lead all of our expeditions. In selecting suitable leaders, we not only look to ensure that they have the relevant qualifications but also that they have a good track record of mountaineering at high altitudes. Whilst qualifications and experience are essential requirements, we also make sure that our leaders have the right temperament to lead an expedition comprised of individuals who have a range of previous experience and expectations. To that end, we aim to provide a leader who will make the expedition both successful and enjoyable throughout.

Our leaders are familiar with what we expect from them and how we like them to run expeditions on our behalf. Their main aim during the expedition will be to ensure that you derive optimum benefit from taking part in the climb and to maximise every individual's chances of reaching the summit. However, as experienced and qualified mountaineers, they will always operate with safety as the prime consideration. In the past, the careful selection of our expedition leaders has proved to be a major asset in the continuing success of our expeditions and the overall enjoyment of the team members taking part.

Our leaders also hold a current mountain first aid certificate and have experience of dealing with the symptoms of acute mountain sickness and other altitude related illness.

Team Composition

The Altai Climber expedition is led by an experienced Jagged Globe leader, supported by a local climbing guide who is based in Mongolia.

Experience Required

Altai Climber is graded 2B.

This expedition is suitable for those who have completed Scottish grade I and II climbs or Alpine routes of Grade PD.


Our Scottish Winter Courses and our Alpine Courses provide good skills preparation for an expedition.

Pre-Expedition Meeting

Prior to all our expeditions, we host a Pre-Expedition Weekend in North Wales. The primary purpose of the weekend is to provide an opportunity for individuals to ask questions about the forthcoming expedition and to introduce them to other team members. The weekend covers topics as diverse as personal equipment and acclimatisation and usually involves a hike and some skills training. To find out more about our Pre-Expedition Weekends [click here].

Equipment

Find out about our comprehensive Equipment Hire Service.

To join the Altai Climber expedition you need the following specialist equipment

A complete climbing equipment and clothing list is included in the expedition dossier, which is sent to you on booking along with details of our Equipment Hire Service.

What the price includes

What the price does not include

Insurance

Special travel insurance is available from us which provides a wide range of cover. Our 'Expedition only' premium for this expedition is detailed in the Prices & Booking section. A full explanation of the Jagged Globe Insurance Scheme is available on the website and in our brochure.

Additional Information

If you wish to discuss any aspect of the expedition or your suitability for it, please contact us by telephone:

Alternatively, you can contact us by email via the Contact Page on the website.

Booking

If you would like to book a place on this expedition, you can do so on our secure on-line booking facility, on our website. The £300 deposit for this expedition will secure you a place on your chosen departure. You will receive an automatic email confirmation, followed by a written confirmation of booking, climbing questionnaire and Expedition Dossier. Alternatively, you can book over the telephone or by sending in a booking form by post. Book Now!