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Expeditions to the Mountains of Asia

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Ama Dablam

Altitude 6,856m/22,494ft » Duration 31 Days » Grade 5D

An ascent of the famous 'Matterhorn of the Himalaya'

Introduction

Ama Dablam is one of the most stunning peaks in the Himalaya and one of the most impressive mountains in the world. Situated in the heart of Everest's Khumbu region, it lies directly above Thyangboche Monastery on the well-worn path to Everest Base Camp and is admired by thousands of trekkers and climbers every year. This expedition offers a superb, technical climbing experience in a magnificent setting, with numerous cultural and scenic diversions.

The expedition is not a "guided" ascent. It will be a professionally led team of competent mountaineers who have enough experience to climb one of the world's most sought after mountains without undue risk. This approach ensures that team members are suitably experienced, reasonably self-sufficient and capable and willing to move between camps unsupervised. You will still have a high level of support, starting with strong, confident leadership; this will maximise your chances of success without undermining the quality of your achievement.

If you have the necessary experience and wish to participate fully as a team member of an expertly led expedition to one of the world's most impressive mountains, this could be the trip for you!

The Mountain

Like the Matterhorn in the Swiss Alps, Ama Dablam epitomises all that is grand about the mountains. Its striking features have become a familiar figure to the public through its adoption as the logo of 'Perpetual', an international assurance company, and numerous posters and books throughout the world. Such impressive beauty has made Ama Dablam a highly coveted prize for climbers. Since its first ascent in 1961 by an Anglo-American-New Zealand team, it has been climbed frequently and by many different routes. As you might expect for such a mountain, some of these routes are of the highest order of difficulty.

Our route will be by the original line of ascent, the South West Ridge. This gives a fine and varied climb, sustained at a reasonable level of difficulty and with good camp platforms at strategic points. The climbing provides interest on rock, snow and ice and although of a fairly technical nature, in normal conditions it is never very difficult. Apart from one short section, the climb is objectively very safe. A route description is included in the detailed itinerary.

Expedition Timing

Our expedition takes place during the early winter season. One of the main benefits of this is that we avoid the congestion that occurs on the SW Ridge during the highly popular pre and post monsoon seasons. Having many teams on the mountain at the same time prevents freedom of movement, causes overcrowded campsites, increases objective dangers and reduces the quality of the overall mountain experience.

November and December are characterised by cold but settled weather, giving good climbing conditions and fabulous views. While temperatures are lower than during the main climbing seasons there is less precipitation and the skies tend to be clearer. This is borne out by the considerable success of our recent winter expeditions to Ama Dablam.

Jagged Globe on Ama Dablam

Our aim is to provide you with a safe, enjoyable and successful expedition to Nepal. This remarkable Himalayan country is the centrepiece of our worldwide activities and we provide all of our climbers with a smooth and efficient service to maximise both your enjoyment and your chances of a successful climb. The benefits of climbing with us on Ama Dablam are:

Additional benefits include:

We are here to make your climb a great and memorable experience, so why not join us for your Himalayan adventure!

Expedition Itinerary

Day 1:Fly London to Kathmandu.
Our flight to Nepal departs London Heathrow at 8 p.m.
Day 2:Arrive at Kathmandu.
We arrive in the afternoon and are taken to the Summit Hotel. The Summit is delightfully situated on the outskirts of the city, with relaxing gardens and a swimming pool.
Day 3:At leisure in Kathmandu.
Today, we have chance to rest after the flight and to discover the delights of Nepal's capital city. The leader will also take the opportunity to check personal equipment as the city bazaars and climbing shops will provide the last chance to correct any deficiencies.
Day 4:Fly to Lukla.
The 40-minute flight from Kathmandu to Lukla is one of the most spectacular flights in the world. The sixteen-seater Twin Otter takes us east into the heart of Sherpa country, giving us views of the peaks of the Khumbu region, including Everest and Ama Dablam (remember to sit on the left hand side of the plane!). The landing on the tiny airstrip at Lukla is, to put it mildly, exciting.

Soon after landing, we set off along the famous trail to Everest Base Camp. From Lukla 9,184 ft (2,800 m), we walk north-west and descend to the river at Phakding 8,698 ft (2,652 m), where we camp for the night.

Day 5:Walk to Namche Bazaar.
Setting off early in the morning, we follow the river before climbing the steep hill to Namche Bazaar. Hopefully, we get our first views of Everest and Lhotse as we approach Namche. We reach the town after about six hours' walking. Namche is the most prosperous and largest settlement in the Khumbu. It is the capital of the Sherpa population, a people who closely resemble the Tibetans in looks and culture. Namche is a vibrant town with many shops and several restaurants and lodges. Superb mountain scenery makes an impressive back-drop.

We are likely to feel breathless from the altitude, as Namche is 11,300 ft (3,445 m) above sea level. To assist acclimatisation we spend two nights here.

Day 6:Rest day at Namche Bazaar.
Team members have the opportunity to look around Namche today and to walk to the Everest View Hotel (c3,900m).
Day 7:Trek to Deboche.
From Namche, the well-worn Everest trail contours around the side of the valley high above the Dudh Kosi. As we follow the path, we will get our first really good views of the great peaks of the Khumbu: Everest, Lhotse, Nuptse and Ama Dablam. Passing by several villages and numerous tea shops, we will cross the Dudh Kosi river and make a steep climb to Thyangboche, home of an impressive and recently rebuilt monastery. We have plenty of time to look around Thyangboche and have a cake at the bakery before dropping down to the river and the village of Deboche (3,700m/12,135ft) a little further along the trail, where we will stay in a relaxing lodge.
Day 8:Trek to Pheriche (4,300m).
It's 1.5 hours walk further up the trail to the village of Pangboche (4,000m/13,120ft). Pangboche is situated directly below Ama Dablam and many of the Sherpas who work on the mountain each season are from this village. We continue up the trail from Pangboche to Pheriche, where we stay in one of the comfortable lodges there.
Day 9:Acclimatisation above Pheriche.
To assist in our acclimatisation, we can walk up the slope towards Taweche (4,800m) for great views up the Khumbu and Imja Valleys. In the afternoon, there is time for an altitude briefing by the Himalayan Rescue Association.
Day 10:Move to Base Camp.
We trek back down the trail to the bridge at Pangboche and cross the Dudh Kosi before climbing up the far side of the river and following the trail and ridgeline up to base camp (3.5 hours from Pangboche). Base camp is an idyllic spot from which the majority of the route is visible. At an altitude of about 15,000ft (4,570m) it provides a comfortable escape from the rigours of the climb. Our porters deposit their loads and leave us here for the next 3 weeks, with only our Sirdar, Sherpas and Cook staff remaining.
Day 11-25:Ascent of Ama Dablam.
We do not provide a prescriptive day-to-day itinerary for the climb, as this will be decided by the expedition leader. They will take a flexible approach based on their own experience, previous Jagged Globe expeditions to the mountain and the make-up of the team. Typically, the team will spend a few days at base camp organising food, practicing rope skills and acclimatising before moving above base camp. It is normal to 'tag' or spend at least one night in camp 1 (5,700m) as part of any acclimatisation schedule, before returning to base camp, resting and preparing for a summit push.

An example 'Climbing Strategy' is described in the Articles Section of our website.

A description of the route up the South West Ridge of Ama Dablam is as follows:

From base camp c4,450m old grassy moraine ridges are followed roughly eastwards to a broad saddle c5,150m from where we can see the Mingbo La. From the saddle we ascend easily northwards until the ground steepens at the start of a large boulder field. It is possible to place an Advanced Base Camp at 5,400m below the boulder field. The route continues in a northwards direction around the base of the boulder field, and then follow cairns upwards towards the toe of the SW ridge. Camp 1 should now be visible just below Pt. 5,705m. At the end of the boulder field, slabs are crossed and then a short gully ascended, which allows access to the ridge proper in a very exposed position. Easy scrambling on the east side of the ridge leads quickly to Camp 1 c5,700m. There are four or five tent platforms.

From Camp 1 we contour round the snowy bowl (possible alternative site for Camp 1) until below two rock fingers. The east side of the ridge is followed, climbing easy mixed ground until a short pitch of Severe (5.4) standard leads to the ridge proper. The ridge is narrow in places, turning difficulties on the east side, until the second tension traverse leads to two pitches of Very Severe (5.6) standard. The route continues on the crest of the ridge for a short distance until we are forced via an awkward step onto the west side of the ridge. The crest of the ridge is regained and easy ground followed to the start of a traverse on the east face, which leads to the Yellow Tower. This 15 metre pitch, which is just below Camp II, is one of the hardest pitches on the climb at HVS (5.8) standard. A short section of ridge now leads to Camp II c5,900m. Camp II has very limited tent space (3 or 4 platforms) and is extremely exposed. It is sometimes only used as an equipment dump with expeditions choosing to go from Camp I to Camp III in a single push.

From Camp II, the climb skirts a red rock bluff on the east and after a step down, follows the snow ridge direct to an awkward traverse eastwards which leads to a gully between the Grey Tower and the lower rock buttress. We climb the gully until a very exposed traverse line is reached on the west side of the ridge. A short snow slope is ascended to the start of the Mushroom Ridge. This is followed and typically involves negotiating some steep snow sections, until Camp III c6,300m is reached.

The route climbs the snow and ice slope directly above Camp III and to the right hand side of the Dablam (there can be hard water ice on this section). We continue to skirt the Dablam on the right side and then move westwards to gain a small snowfield below the Burgschrund. The Burgschrund is crossed and then the climb heads directly to the obvious ice crest. This is followed in a magnificent position to the summit.

The team needs to be back at base camp by Day 25. At this point, the porters arrive for our return trek to Lukla.

Day 26-27:Trek to Lukla.
We retrace our steps via Thyangboche, Namche Bazaar and Phakding to arrive back in Lukla ready for the morning flight to Kathmandu.
Day 28:Fly Lukla to Kathmandu.
An exhilarating take-off that you will never forget starts our journey back to Kathmandu and the Summit Hotel.
Day 29:At leisure in Kathmandu.
This is also a buffer day in case our Lukla flight is delayed. If we fly out of Lukla on time we have a full day to relax and enjoy the various delights of Kathmandu.
Day 30:Fly Kathmandu to London.
Day 31:Arrive London.

PLEASE NOTE: Every effort will be made to keep to the above itinerary, but as this is Adventure Travel in a remote mountain region, we cannot guarantee it. Weather conditions, road conditions, vehicle breakdowns and the health of climbers can all contribute to changes. The Expedition Leader and our local agent will try to ensure that the trip runs according to plan, but an easy going nature will be an asset!

Acclimatisation

Approximate altitude profile of Ama Dablam: Ama Dablam altitude profile, 10 kb
Please note: This profile does not represent the gradient of the mountain!

Leadership

The 2008 Ama Dablam expedition leader will be Caroline Ogden (NZMG IFMGA). Caroline has over twenty years experience mountaineering all over the world, and immediately prior to the Ama Dablam expedition, she will be leading a Jagged Globe Khumbu Climber expedition. Caroline is a key member of our summer Alpine guiding staff and works throughout the entire season on Jagged Globe Alpine Courses. She is undoubtedly one of our best-loved and hardest working guides. You can read a short profile about Caroline on the Guides and Instructors page here.

Director and Chief Guide of New Zealand's Aspiring Guides, Marty Beare will be joining Caroline as a leader on this year's Jagged Globe Ama Dablam expedition. Marty [ profile] is a massively experienced mountaineer, whose personal climbing CV includes the 2nd ascent of Deprivation on Mt Hunter (Alaskan Grade 6) and a recent expedition to Changabang.

All our leaders also hold a current mountain first aid certificate and have experience of dealing with the symptoms of acute mountain sickness and other altitude related illness.

Team Composition

Caroline and Marty will be supported by a number of handpicked climbing Sherpas, who will have climbed Ama Dablam and mountains such as Everest and Cho Oyu with Jagged Globe. We will have a cook team in base camp.

Experience Required

Ama Dablam is graded 5D.

The expedition grade reflects the technical nature and physical toughness of the climb. Whilst the altitude of the summit is relatively modest, climbing on steep ground and carrying a pack of 10-15Kg is a considerable step up from, for example, expeditions graded 3B (e.g. Khumbu Climber, Bolivian Climber), where c6,000m summits are reached from one high camp.

To join this expedition and have a good chance of success you need:

We also recommend that you have:

Although ropes are fixed the whole way to the summit, climbers need to be able to climb steep rock and hard water ice. You also need to be psychologically prepared for and personally well organised to cope with living high on a precipitous mountain in cold conditions. To discuss what is involved in this expedition in more detail, please speak to either Adele Pennington or Tom Briggs in the Jagged Globe office.
Our Scottish Winter Courses and our Alpine Courses provide good skills preparation for an expedition.

Porter Protection

Any trek or expedition to Nepal relies on the hard work of local porters. It is their carrying of our supplies and baggage that makes a journey into the mountains possible. Jagged Globe is therefore careful to ensure that they are well treated, not exploited and have good protection from the elements. We work closely with our Nepal based partner, Kit Spencer to provide shelter, clothing and footwear that match the severity of the environment. Porters who become sick are treated with the same care and attention as team members, and we have used helicopters, at our expense, to rescue porters from hazardous situations.

Jagged Globe supports the work of the International Porter Protection Group (IPPG), and provides help and advice to those organisations to improve the working conditions of the porters on whom we depend. All trekkers are asked to provide feedback on porters' working conditions in post-trip questionnaires.

Pre-Expedition Meeting

Prior to all our expeditions, we host a Pre-Expedition Weekend in North Wales. The primary purpose of the weekend is to provide an opportunity for individuals to ask questions about the forthcoming expedition and to introduce them to other team members. The weekend covers topics as diverse as personal equipment and acclimatisation and usually involves a hike and some skills training. The pre-expedition weekend will be run by leaders of previous Ama Dablam expeditions. Due to the specialist equipment requirements for this expedition, we strongly recommend that you attend this weekend. To find out more about our Pre-Expedition Weekends [click here].

Equipment

Find out about our comprehensive Equipment Hire Service.

To join the expedition to Ama Dablam you need the following specialist equipment:

A complete climbing equipment and clothing list is included in the expedition dossier, which is sent to you on booking along with details of our Equipment Hire Service.

What the price includes

What the price does not include

Insurance

Special travel insurance is available from us which provides a wide range of cover. Our 'Expedition only' premium for this expedition is detailed in the Prices & Booking section. A full explanation of the Jagged Globe Insurance Scheme is available on the website and in our brochure.

Additional Information

If you wish to discuss any aspect of the expedition or your suitability for it, please contact us by telephone:

Alternatively, you can contact us by email via the Contact Page on the website.

Booking

If you would like to book a place on this expedition, you can do so on our secure on-line booking facility, on our website. The £300 deposit for this expedition will secure you a place on your chosen departure. You will receive an automatic email confirmation, followed by a written confirmation of booking, climbing questionnaire and Expedition Dossier. Alternatively, you can book over the telephone or by sending in a booking form by post. Book Now!