banner photo

Expeditions to South America

0845 345 8848
climb@jagged-globe.co.uk

Antisana

Altitude 5,703m/18,709ft » Duration 15 Days » Grade 2B

A two-week climbing adventure in a wild area of Ecuador

Introduction

Antisana is a rarely climbed peak in a remote and interesting part of Ecuador. It rises impressively above the grasslands of the altiplano, surrounded by herds of wild horses, wolves, llamas and condors. The expedition is more 'backcountry' than our popular Ecuador Volcanoes expedition, as most of our nights in the mountains are spent in tents rather than huts. The greater difficulty and remoteness of our objectives, combined with their scenic beauty, make this an inspiring alpine climbing expedition.

The expedition spends a day in Quito, before travelling out to the countryside for two acclimatisation hikes. Then way spend a day revising our mountaineering skills on the flanks of Cotopaxi, before travelling onwards to the Iliniza Ecological Reserve and our first night at altitude. From our base camp, we make an ascent of Iliniza North (5,126m). Following a rest day, it is a short but difficult drive in jeeps to the foot of Antisana, which we climb over two days, before heading back to Quito.

For those who would like to spend three weeks in Ecuador, our Ecuador Volcanoes might be of interest and culminates in an ascent of Ecuador's second highest mountain and the highest active volcano in the world, Cotopaxi (5,897m). We can also arrange for a guided ascent of Chimborazo (6,310m), after the Antisana climb. This notoriously icy and difficult peak is guided at 1:1 and is graded 3B.

Expedition Itinerary

Day 1:Fly UK to Quito
Day 2:Arrive Quito.
On arrival in Quito, we transfer to the hotel for breakfast and a chance to catch up on lost sleep whilst our bodies adjust to the new time zone. Quito is at an altitude of 2,850m so you may feel a little breathless for the first day or two. Once rested, we visit the Equatorial Monument close to the city as well as the Guapulo Monastery built by the Spanish in 1623.
Day 3:Acclimatisation & City Tour
Whilst we acclimatise further, we have a half-day tour of the city. We have the afternoon at leisure to relax or alternatively, you may elect to recommence the exploration of this fascinating city by yourself or with other members of the team. This may take you to the old quarter or to the more modern shopping areas in search of something unique to take home. In the evening, we have a presentation on climbing in the Andes.
Day 4:Walk to Rucu Pichincha (4,650m)
We make a very short drive to the western side of the city towards the slopes of Rucu Pichincha to catch the teleferique. The telefrique takes us to the top of Cruz Loma at 4,050m in just 10 minutes. There are panoramic views from the cabins that ascend for 2.5 Km, hanging over the slopes of the Pichincha Volcano. Cruz Loma is a great place to get some good views of Cayambe and Cotopaxi, as well as of Quito.
Day 5:Ascent of the Central Summit of Rumiñahui (4,600m)
After a short drive from our countryside hostel, we arrive in Cotopaxi National Park to climb Rumiñahui (4,600m). The hike starts from the Limpiapungo Plateau (3,800m) and follows the central ridge, leading to the middle summit. The rock on Rumiñahui can be a bit loose underfoot, so we have to take care, but the views from the summit are worth it. The volcano is located only 13 Km northwest of Cotopaxi. Rumiñahui is named after a very well-known Inca General who fought against the Spanish when they were looking for the Inca treasure around the year 1520.
Day 6:Cotopaxi training day
In order to review some general glacier travel techniques and crampon proficiency, we include a day of glacier training at the northeast glacier of Cotopaxi. This day also serves to provide helpful acclimatisation in our build up to Antisana. We spend the night in a local lodge at a lower altitude of 3,100m.
Day 7:Hike up to la Virgen Camp (3,900m)
From the village of El Chaupi, located in the foothills of Iliniza, we hike up to the entrance of the recently created Iliniza Ecological Reserve. From here we head towards our base camp, hiking through several fields of the Hacienda el Refugio. We spend tonight at a siginificantly higher altitude (3,900m). The first Antisana expedition organised by Jagged Globe in 2003 was in aid of a charity that supported a children's home in Ecuador. Today, through our Head Ecuadorian Guide, Javier Herrera and his wife, Helma, Jagged Globe is in close contact with the recently opened children's home Clarita Luz. Those members of the Antisana expedition who would like to visit Clarita Luz on this day are very welcome to do so.
Day 8:Climb Iliniza North (5,126m)
Iliniza North and South are located about 55 Km southwest of Quito. Originally, Illiniza would have been just one volcano, which exploded and split in half a very long time ago. The two peaks are separated by a saddle and are about 2Km away from one another. The south peak is covered in hard ice and has become very difficult in recent years, whilst the north peak is rocky and a lot easier. 50 years ago Iliniza North did have a glacier, but it has completely melted in the last few decades. It is a big altitude gain today, so you should expect to feel it. The route ascends from the west side of the mountain, with some easy scrambling below the summit. From the summit, there are spectacular views of Iliniza South (5,263m), Cotopaxi (5,897m), and Chimborazo (6,310m), the highest volcano in Ecuador. After the climb, we return to our camp to rest and prepare for the next day.
Day 9:Hike and drive to Hacienda
It is an easy descent down from Virgen Camp to our lodge in the countryside. In the afternoon you can choose to visit the town of Machachi where there is Internet access.
Day 10:Rest day / hot springs.
This rest day at a lower altitude (3,000m), should ensure that the team are feeling fresh and motivated for the rigours of climbing on Antisana. We have the chance to spend the day at the hot springs of Ilalo before heading towards the Antisana Region and our main objective.
Day 11-13:Ascent of Antisana (5,704m)
Antisana is a spectacular looking mountain of very large and active glaciers, making it the greatest equatorial snow and ice mass in the world. The broad summit has four distinct peaks, which make up the crater rim. Despite its impressive appearance, Antisana is rarely attempted, as there is no straightforward route up the mountain. Jagged Globe has considerable experience of the mountain, having either climbed or attempted it every year since 2003.

We make the short but difficult drive to Antisana in 4X4 Jeeps and make base camp at the western side of the mountain. From base camp, we decide on our specific route, taking into consideration various factors such as snow quality, crevasse patterns and weather conditions currently affecting the complex glaciated terrain, which flank all aspects of the peak. Our climbing route will necessitate a full range of snow and ice climbing techniques as the terrain will involve moderately angled snow slopes and short steeper sections of ice. The views from the summit are spectacular, in particular the north face of Cotopaxi, which is rarely seen and part of the Amazon basin. With a big feel and covered in crevasses, Antisana is pretty wild and has some of the most interesting climbing in Ecuador. If you are looking for a real climbing adventure, this is it! After the climb, it is a 4-5 hour drive back to Quito.

Day 14:Depart from Quito to UK
In the morning, we are taken to the airport for our return flight to London.
Day 15:Arrive UK

PLEASE NOTE: Every effort will be made to keep to the above itinerary, but as this is Adventure Travel in a remote mountain region, we cannot guarantee it. Weather conditions, road conditions, vehicle breakdowns and the health of climbers can all contribute to changes. The expedition Leader and our local agent will try to ensure that the trip runs according to plan, but an easy going nature will be an asset!

Acclimatisation

Approximate altitude profile of Antisana: Antisana altitude profile, 14 kb
Please note: This profile does not represent the gradient of the mountain!

Extensions

Chimborazo Extension
Suitably experienced team members who wish to stay on in Ecuador for an extra few days can do so and attempt to climb the country's highest mountain, Chimborazo (6,310m). We grade this climb 3B. For this ascent, you need:

The climb is guided at a 1:1 ratio and costs £650. Please indicate on your booking form if you wish to book this extension and you will be invoiced accordingly.

Day 14:Drive to Urbina
This is a rest day from climbing where we travel from Quito by road to the Chimborazo Region and spend the night at Urbina Lodge (3,750m) on the western slopes.
Day 15-17:Ascent of Chimborazo (6,310m)
We set aside 3 days on this extension for the ascent of the highest mountain in Ecuador. On our first day, we hike to the Carrell Hut at 4,800m, before continuing to the Whymper Hut at 5,000m. The ascent is usually made on the following day, given stable weather.

We make another very early start and climb a scree slope to a huge snow ramp, which is followed to the main glacier. This section is crevassed and we need to be roped-up, however, the climbing is reasonably angled. The snowfield to the summit is usually marked with flags and footsteps, as this is a popular route. First, we reach Veintimilla Peak from where it is nearly a kilometre across a snow basin to the main summit. This section is hard work in the hot sun, which is the main reason why we leave the hut very early in the morning. The ascent to the main summit takes 8 to 10 hours and about 4 hours for the descent back to the hut. In the afternoon we drive back to Quito.

Day 18:Depart from Quito to UK
In the morning, we are taken to the airport for our return flight to London, via Amsterdam.
Day 19:Arrive UK
We arrive back in UK by mid-morning, depending on connecting flights from Amsterdam to UK regional airports.

PLEASE NOTE: Every effort will be made to keep to the above itinerary, but as this is Adventure Travel in a remote mountain region, we cannot guarantee it. Weather conditions, road conditions, vehicle breakdowns and the health of climbers can all contribute to changes. The Expedition Leader and our local agent will try to ensure that the trip runs according to plan, but an easy going nature will be an asset!

Acclimatisation

Approximate altitude profile of Antisana: Antisana altitude profile, 14 kb
Please note: This profile does not represent the gradient of the mountain!

Galapagos Extension
We regularly organise cruises to the Galapagos Islands for either 4 or 8 additional days. Please contact us for details of this tailor-made service.

Leadership

Dave Walsh will be leading the 2008 Antisana expedition. Dave is one of our most experienced leaders and is also our Senior Course Director on our Scottish Winter Courses and Rock Climbing and Scrambling Courses. Dave's impressive mountaineering CV includes first British ascents of 8,000m peaks, Cho Oyu and Nanga Parbat, as well as leading Jagged Globe teams on all Seven Summits, including Everest. In recent years, Dave has been leading a number of Jagged Globe expeditions every year and in 2008, he will be out in front on Antisana, Alpamayo and Huascaran and on our Greenland Explorer expedition.

Team Composition

Dave Walsh will be supported by our excellent, English-speaking Ecuadorian guides. There is one guide for every two climbers on Antisana.

Experience Required

Antisana is graded 2B.

Antisana is therefore suitable for climbers who have good cardio-vascular fitness, which for most people requires some training, by running, hiking and perhaps some gym work. The average rucksack weight is 8-12 Kg. There are short, steep sections of snow and ice up to about 50°.

To have a good chance of success on Antisana, you need:

Our Scottish Winter Courses and our Alpine Courses provide good skills preparation for an expedition.

Pre-Expedition Meeting

Prior to all our expeditions, we host a Pre-Expedition Weekend in North Wales. The primary purpose of the weekend is to provide an opportunity for individuals to ask questions about the forthcoming expedition and to introduce them to other team members. The weekend covers topics as diverse as personal equipment and acclimatisation and usually involves a hike and some skills training. To find out more about our Pre-Expedition Weekends [click here].

Equipment

Find out about our comprehensive Equipment Hire Service.

To join the expedition to Antisana you need the following specialist equipment:

A complete climbing equipment and clothing list is included in the expedition dossier, which is sent to you on booking along with details of our Equipment Hire Service.

What the price includes

What the price does not include

Insurance

Special travel insurance is available from us which provides a wide range of cover. Our 'Expedition only' premium for this expedition is detailed in the Prices & Booking section. A full explanation of the Jagged Globe Insurance Scheme is available on the website and in our brochure.

Additional Information

If you wish to discuss any aspect of the expedition or your suitability for it, please contact us by telephone:

Alternatively, you can contact us by email via the Contact Page on the website.

Booking

If you would like to book a place on this expedition, you can do so on our secure on-line booking facility, on our website. The £300 deposit for this expedition will secure you a place on your chosen departure. You will receive an automatic email confirmation, followed by a written confirmation of booking, climbing questionnaire and Expedition Dossier. Alternatively, you can book over the telephone or by sending in a booking form by post. Book Now!