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Expeditions to South America

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Huascaran

Altitude 6,769m/22,208ft » Duration 26 Days » Grade 3B

Climb Peru's highest mountain after acclimatising on Pisco and the superb Santa Cruz trek

Introduction

Huascaran (pronounced "Hwas-Ka-Ran") is Peru's highest mountain; its two summits are separated by an enormous col, the Garganta, which is gained by climbing along the edge of a tumbling icefall. This can give several short steep pitches, although the difficulties can change overnight. From the top camp just below the Garganta, the route to the south summit follows snow and ice slopes, steeply at first, to the highest point in the tropics. Access to the south summit is sometimes barred by a large crevasse, in which case we then climb the lower north summit (6,664m). In July 2007, Andy Chapman's team was our first since 2001 to climb to the higher, south summit. Our 2008 team repeated this feat, with team members reaching the south summit again.

The Huascaran expedition utilises multiple camps and is excellent preparation for climbers who might be considering bigger peaks in the future. Mountaineers who have experience of Alpine PD+ routes, or those who have previously climbed trekking peaks in Nepal, might choose Huascaran as their introduction to a full-blown expedition.

Santa Cruz Trek

A trek through the Northern Cordillera Blanca following the famous Santa Cruz trail. This option involves the crossing of two high passes, a chance to view some of the more beautiful mountains in the Cordillera Blanca, including Alpamayo, and culminates in an ascent of Pisco Oeste (5,752 m). This was the chosen acclimatisation programme for our first expedition to Peru in 1995 and it continues to be an extremely effective means of acclimatising before tackling the mountains.

Expedition Itinerary

Day 1:Fly from London to Lima.
We arrive in Lima in the late evening and are taken to our hotel in the city centre. Team members joining in Lima can meet the rest of the team at the hotel and make arrangements for the drive to Huaraz the following morning.
Day 2:Drive to Huaraz.
You will find the drive to Huaraz one of many contrasts. As we leave the relative wealth of Lima, you will be struck by the numerous shantytowns that surround the sprawling capital. These impoverished homes will finally dwindle as the city fades and gives way to desert. Despite being next to the Pacific coast, the drive north will take us through land deprived of water and vegetation. The character of the countryside changes gradually as the bus gains altitude and swings slowly East towards Huaraz, the capital and heart of "Andinismo". Although never flush with greenery, plants become more apparent as altitude is gained and the Andes draw closer. Villages become more frequent as the rivers and irrigation make farming possible.

From sea level desert to Huaraz at over 10,000ft, a bustling town with an economy largely based on agriculture and mountaineering, in 8 hours - a journey that will long be remembered. To welcome us to the capital of climbing in the Cordillera Blanca, we will be treated to dinner when we will be able to discuss our climbing plans with the aid of a magnificent view of Huascaran to the North.

Day 3:Rest day.
Having come from sea level to 3,100m, it will be important for us to have a rest day today. The emphasis will be on a balanced acclimatisation and so you may wish to relax in the morning, visit the market in the afternoon and climb a small hill behind the town in the evening, in order to get extraordinary pictures of the Cordillera Blanca as the sun goes down.
Day 4:Start the trek from Santa Cruz to Llanganuco.
This is arguably the most beautiful walk in all Peru. Leaving early, vehicles will take us and our equipment to Cashapampa (2,900m) where we will spend our first night camping. The journey North will take about 4 hours and pass through Yungay which was rebuilt after being destroyed by a landslide in 1970. The journey will also take us to Caraz and Santa Cruz and provide plenty of opportunities to view and photograph the people and mountains of the Cordillera Blanca. Having passed from the south side of Huascaran to the north, along its west flank, we will have been able to see virtually every step of our intended route to the summit of this massive mountain. The guides will be able to show you the route and to discuss the condition of the climb and their perspective on any difficulties they envisage having seen the mountain.
Day 5:Cashapampa to Laguna Ichiccocha (3,800m).
The path initially follows an aqueduct East to the entrance of the Quebrada Santa Cruz. Passing through a large wooden gate, we will then follow the path along the left side of the valley. The path gradually ascends to join the river which will be followed to the campsite. Time: 7 hours.
Day 6:From Laguna Ichiccocha to Taullipampa (4,200m).
The trail continues to Laguna Jatuncocha and a swampy plain beyond. Having crossed a stream, we will reach a dry plain from where we can see a large cave. Continuing up the right side of the valley through quinoa groves and crossing a log bridge, we will eventually arrive at the site of the base camp used for ascents of Alpamayo (5,947m) and Quitaraju (6,040m). From here, there are several options for a campsite. By walking further up the valley, one is rewarded by views of Artesonraju (6,025m) and a campsite dominated by Taulliraju (5,830m) and Punta Union which we will cross the next day. Time: 6 hours.
Day 7:Cross the pass of Punta Union (4,750m).
Today we cross the pass of Punta Union (4,750m) on our way from Taullipampa (4,200m) to Quebrada Ranincuray (3,750m) - 7 hours. This will be a hard and demanding day but will greatly assist our acclimatisation as we push up to the pass of Punta Union. We will also earn magnificent views of the most beautiful mountain scenery in the world - this view of the Andes will make an indelible impression, so don't forget your film. The path will initially take us to Laguna Taullicocha (4,500m) in a very wild situation before climbing towards the pass. The Punta Union is an artificial passage hewn out of the rocks. On the far side, steps initially lead down taking the path passed several small lakes and towards the Huaripampa valley, which is stunningly beautiful. The trail then descends steeply through many switchbacks but eventually reaches the plain several kilometres further on. Having crossed the river, the trail follows the left bank of the valley until it reaches the entrance to the Quebrada Ranincuray where we will camp for the night.
Day 8:Quebrada Ranincuray to Morococha Lakes (4,400m).
The walk will continue down the Quebrada Hauripampa on the left bank of the river. Depending on time and the wishes of the group, we may decide to visit the small town of Colcabamba where we could take a simple meal before continuing on our way. Alternatively, we may wish to press on in order to reach the campsite and explore the surrounding valleys and hillsides. Which ever route we choose, we will cross the river several times before entering the valley of Quebrada Morococha and climbing steadily up towards our campsite for the night. Time: 6 hours.
Day 9:Morococha Lakes to Quebrada Demanda (3,900m).
Another day to consolidate the acclimatisation that we will have achieved already. Though a road now crosses the Portachuelo Llanganuco Pass (4,750m), we will walk over it into the Llanganuco valley in order to maximise our acclimatisation and our chances of success on Pisco and Huascaran. The trail leads up to the pass through quinoa forests and meadows before opening out as we approach the top. Portachuelo will be another place to have your camera ready as the lovely Llanganuco valley comes into view. You will also see the east flank of Huascaran with both North and South peaks providing the backdrop to a vista that will include the Huandoy group (6,395m), Chopicalqui (6,354m) and the awe-inspiring Chacraraju (6,112m).
Day 10:Rest day after the trek.
A chance to enjoy the Llanganuco valley and to prepare all the equipment for our first climb.
Day 11:Move to Nevado Pisco base camp (4,600m).
The walk to Pisco base camp can be steep and difficult in the warm mid-day sun so an early start would be advisable. The small trees and forests provide some cool shade until the altitude provides a coolness of its own. The path meanders from the valley floor, crossing several rivers, before ascending the hillside. Finally, the sparse trees give way to an open valley at the head of which we will find our camp for the night. The head of the valley is dominated by a large moraine, which bounds the right flank of the Huandoy glacier. Time: 3 hours.
Day 12:Climb to camp 1 (4,850m).
The path will now take us straight up the steep moraine. Once on the crest, we shall walk along the top facing towards Huandoy before descending steeply down the other side and on to the boulder covered glacier below. There are many footpaths marked by cairns that lead across the glacier to the far side - the trick will be to choose the quickest and easiest. Camp 1 is located amongst boulders beside a small mountain lake at the tip of the Pisco glacier. Time: 3 to 4 hours.
Day 13:Summit day, Pisco Oeste (5,752m).
We will gain the glacier just beyond the lake and follow it without difficulty to the Huandoy-Pisco Col (5,350m). From here, the route climbs broad slopes towards the summit. Although never steep (up to 35°), we will need to be careful in picking our route through crevasses and over snow bridges before approaching the final summit section. Here we may encounter the steepest snow slope, a short pitch of 40°, before pulling on to the summit. Our ascent will be rewarded by absolutely brilliant views, especially of Chacraraju and our next objective, Huascaran. Time: 8 hours return.
Day 14:Descend to Pisco Base Camp and by road to Yungay.
We will retrace our steps back to base camp and down into the Llanganuco valley. We will then be met by our transport and be driven out of the National Park to a lodge in Yungay ready for our next summit. This should provide an excellent opportunity to toast our first success! (Climbers from the Alpamayo expedition join us today).
Day 15:Drive to Musho and climb to Huascaran Base Camp (4,200).
It will take about an hour to drive to Musho from where we will take the trail to base camp. The main trail is followed easily to a eucalyptus plantation before continuing up the left bank of the valley. Moraines and mountain streams will be crossed on the way to our beautiful, terraced camp. Time: 4 ½ hours.
Day 16:Move to Moraine Camp (4,650m).
A short rock scramble behind base camp leads onto an expanse of open rock slabs. These slabs provide a fascinating walk, leading across the front of the mountain towards the edge of the glacier, where we camp. Time: 2 hours.
Day 17:Acclimatisation at Moraine Camp (4,650m).
We will spend the morning doing some basic ropework practice and checking our equipment. In the afternoon, we might have a short walk up to the edge of the glacier to cache crampons, helmets, harnesses and axes. The main aim of the day is to help our acclimatisation with some "active pottering", rather than exert ourselves too much.
Day 18:Climb to Camp 1 (5,550m).
Today the climb starts in earnest. The glacier itself is not steep, or too difficult, but its crevasses and snow bridges provide plenty of entertainment as a good route is traced amongst them. The route then arrives at a camp situated safely below the seracs of the Garganta Icefall. Because this flank of the mountain faces West, we should be treated to even more spectacular sunsets and have the advantage of losing the sun, and its warmth, late in the day. The colours, as the sun fades, will provide some marvellous opportunities to photograph the Garganta and both the North and South Peaks of Huascaran. Time: 6 to 7 hours.
Day 19:Climb from Camp 1 to Camp 2 (5,950m).
Today we will climb the Garganta Icefall to the Col between Huascaran's North and South summits. This will be the crux of the climb. The snow and ice on this part of the climb varies greatly from year to year but the guides will already know what to expect. You may use your technical ice hammer on some steeper sections, in addition to your alpine axe. Whether the snow is at 45°, or there are short sections of ice at 85°, the ascent of the Garganta represents a fabulous day's climbing in awe inspiring surroundings. Having been led through the icefall by the guides, we will eventually arrive on the Garganta Col itself. From here, we will have a clear view of the remaining route to the summit. Time: 7 hours.
Day 20:Summit day on Huascaran (6,768m).
The advantage of the trek and ascent of Pisco and a gradual acclimatisation will be appreciated today. With the benefit of the climb of the Garganta behind us, the 35° to 40° snow slopes on summit day will be taken in our stride. Leaving our camp on the Col very early, we will cross towards the slopes below the South Summit. We will then climb a short easy angled snow couloir before traversing right, across the face, towards a small group of seracs. From here, we will join the final slope and climb south-east straight up to the summit. Time: 8 hours to the summit, 4 hours return to camp 2.
Day 21:A spare day to allow for bad weather.
Day 22:Descend from camp 2 to base camp.
Day 23:Return to Huaraz.
From base camp, we will descend to Musho to be met by the transport. Our vehicles will be a welcome sight, especially as they will whisk us back to Huaraz and the comforts of our hotel. Tonight will be a night to celebrate and to thank our guides and porters for their help in making the trip a success.
Day 24:Huaraz to Lima by road.
We spend the last night of the expedition in Lima when we will have the evening free for last minute souvenir hunting.
Day 25:Fly to London.
We may just get a farewell view of our mountains as we cross the Andes for the last time and head home.
Day 26:Arrive London.

PLEASE NOTE: Please note that this itinerary is a guideline only. Although every effort will be made to adhere to it, unforeseen circumstances may force changes to be made at the last moment. Please be prepared to be flexible if necessary.

Acclimatisation

Approximate altitude profile of Huascaran: Huascaran altitude profile, 11 kb
Please note: This profile does not represent the gradient of the mountain!

Leadership

All of our expeditions are led by qualified and experienced mountain guides or mountaineering instructors. In selecting suitable leaders, we not only look to ensure that they have the relevant qualifications but we also ensure that they have a good track record of mountaineering at high altitudes. Whilst qualifications and experience are essential requirements, we also make sure that our leaders have the right temperament to lead an expedition comprised of individuals who have a range of previous experience and expectations. To that end, we aim to provide a leader who will make the expedition both successful and enjoyable throughout.

Our leaders are personally known to us, having normally led several expeditions for us previously. They are familiar with what we expect from them and how we like them to run expeditions on our behalf. Their main aim during the expedition will be to ensure that you derive optimum benefit from taking part in the climb and to maximise every individual's chances of reaching the summit. However, as experienced and qualified mountaineers, they will always operate with safety as the prime consideration. In the past, the careful selection of our expedition leaders has proved to be a major asset in the continuing success of our expeditions and the overall enjoyment of the team members taking part.

Our leaders also hold a current mountain first aid certificate and have experience of dealing with the symptoms of acute mountain sickness and other altitude related illness.

Team Composition

Neal Short will be leading the 2009 Huascaran expedition. Neal is one of our most experienced leaders, having led previous expeditions for us to Everest, Cho Oyu, Ama Dablam and Khan Tengri, amongst others. Neal's impressive mountaineering CV includes ascents of Denali via the rarely-climbed West Rib, a solo of the Polish Glacier route on Aconcagua and classic north faces in the Alps. Since 2001, Neal has led fourteen expeditions for Jagged Globe and is one of our most popular and successful leaders. Whether on steep, technical ground or on big 8,000ers, Neal knows what it takes to get the most out of a team and to ensure that members fulfil their potential.

Experience Required

Huascaran is graded 3B.

The Huascaran expedition provides a great climb in a superb setting. It is attainable by those who have climbed, for example, Nepalese trekking peaks and is a logical progression for those who hope to climb higher and more serious mountains in the future.

Climbers wishing to join the expedition and have a good chance of success need:

If you would like to discuss your previous experience or your suitability for the expedition then please get in touch and we would be delighted to talk to you.
Our Scottish Winter Courses and our Alpine Courses provide good skills preparation for an expedition.

Pre-Expedition Meeting

Prior to all our expeditions, we host a Pre-Expedition Weekend in North Wales. The primary purpose of the weekend is to provide an opportunity for individuals to ask questions about the forthcoming expedition and to introduce them to other team members. The weekend covers topics as diverse as personal equipment and acclimatisation and usually involves a hike and some skills training. To find out more about our Pre-Expedition Weekends [click here].

Equipment

Find out about our comprehensive Equipment Hire Service.

To join the expedition to Huascaran, you need the following specialist equipment:

A complete climbing equipment and clothing list is included in the expedition dossier, which is sent to you on booking along with details of our Equipment Hire Service.

What the price includes

What the price does not include

Insurance

Special travel insurance is available from us which provides a wide range of cover. Our 'Expedition only' premium for this expedition is detailed in the Prices & Booking section. A full explanation of the Jagged Globe Insurance Scheme is available on the website and in our brochure.

Additional Information

If you wish to discuss any aspect of the expedition or your suitability for it, please contact us by telephone:

Alternatively, you can contact us by email via the Contact Page on the website.

Booking

If you would like to book a place on this expedition, you can do so on our secure on-line booking facility, on our website. The £300 deposit for this expedition will secure you a place on your chosen departure. You will receive an automatic email confirmation, followed by a written confirmation of booking, climbing questionnaire and Expedition Dossier. Alternatively, you can book over the telephone or by sending in a booking form by post. Book Now!