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Lhakpa Ri & The North Col

Altitude 7,043m/23,107ft » Duration 29 Days » Grade 2C

The world's most climabale 7,000m peak, followed by an ascent to the North Col of Everest

Introduction

Jagged Globe has organised expeditions to the North Col of Everest (c7,000m) since 2001 and nearby Lhakpa Ri (7,045m), since 2004 and as such, we have an excellent knowledge of these mountaineering objectives, with members of our office staff having first-hand experience of each. The approach to both objectives is via the historic route up the East Rongbuk Glacier to Advance Base Camp, used by teams attempting the north side of Everest. In spring 2008, we are organising two expeditions, which aim to climb Lhakpa Ri, then after a rest day, make the ascent to The North Col as well. Please note that the price for 2008 expeditions includes the increased climbing permit fees charged by the Chinese Mountaineering Association.

The expeditions start with a flight from Kathmandu to Lhasa, where we will spend several days acclimatising in the 'Forbidden City', before travelling by Jeep across the Tibetan Plateau to Everest Base Camp. Once the team is sufficiently acclimatised, we will make the two-day trek up the East Rongbuk Glacier, following the Magic Highway of moraine through huge pinnacles of ice, to Advance Base Camp (6,400m), our launch pad for both climbs.

Lhakpa Ri is higher than anything outside Asia and yet is probably the most climbable 7,000m peak in the world, but it is not a 'trek' as some trekking companies suggest! The ascent follows a shallow, snow-filled depression on the southwest flank of the mountain. After gaining the crest of the ridge close to the Lhakpa La, the route turns south and follows a spectacular snow ridge to the summit. The views from the summit, with the North Face of Everest behind, are incredible.

The North Col of Everest is steeped in the history of the early attempts to climb Everest, during the 1920s and 1930s. Discovered by George Mallory and his team in 1922, it is the key to the ascent of Everest from the north. Following our ascent of Lhakpa Ri, we will have a rest day before attempting our climb. Using fixed ropes, we ascend up the steep flanks of the North Col, to its crest at 7,000m. This is an historic location, right at the foot of the North Ridge and the whole of the route attempted by Mallory and Irvine is visible directly above.

After the climbs, we return to Base Camp and drive via the Friendship Highway to Kathmandu, to complete our month-long Everest experience.

Expedition Itinerary

Day 1:Fly from London Heathrow to Kathmandu.
Day 2:Arrive in Kathmandu.
We will be taken to the Summit Hotel, a remarkably pleasant and friendly establishment situated on a hill overlooking the city.
Day 3:At leisure in Kathmandu.
There will be time for us to explore the bazaars, shops and monasteries of this fascinating city. The expedition leader will also examine everyone's climbing equipment so that any shortfalls can be purchased in Kathmandu prior to flying to Tibet. Chinese Visas allowing entry to Tibet will also be issued by the Chinese Embassy in Kathmandu.
Day 4:Fly to Lhasa.
If the weather is clear the flight will give extraordinary views of the Himalaya, including Everest, Makalu and Kangchenjunga. We should also get a good view from the air of the Kangshung valley. On arrival in Lhasa, we will be met and taken to a good standard hotel close to the city centre. This will be our base for the next few days while we acclimatise to the high altitude of the Tibetan plateau (Lhasa is one of the highest capitals in the world at 3,600m/12,000ft).
Day 5-6:At leisure in Lhasa.
While acclimatising, we will make the most of our time in Lhasa and visit the Potala Palace, the Dalai Lama's summer palace and perhaps one or two monasteries outside the city. Lhasa is a fascinating place, the indigenous Tibetan people and architecture contrasting strongly with the imposed Chinese influence.
Day 7:Drive to Shigatse (6 hours).
We set off in jeeps across the Tibetan plateau. Soon after leaving Lhasa, we reach the banks of the Tsang Po, which becomes the Brahmaputra River when it enters India. We drive up-stream for a while before turning southwest through barren desert-like valleys to reach Shigatse, Tibet's second city. Overnight in a hotel. Altitude: 3,900m.
Day 8:Drive to Xegar (8 hours).
As we continue along the Tibetan highway, the northern edge of the Greater Himalaya comes into view, often providing a spectacular panorama of peaks, including Everest. We overnight in a hotel 7 kilometres outside the main town of Xegar. If there is time, we may be able to visit the main town and its hilltop monastery. Altitude: 4,000m.
Day 9:Acclimatisation Day.
This is an important day which will help is cope with the big height gain to base camp tomorrow. The general advice is to take it easy, but a visit the main town and a gentle hike up to its hilltop monastery (4,200m) are highly recommended.
Day 10:Drive to Everest Base Camp (5,200m)
Today we leave the main Lhasa to Kathmandu highway and head due south towards Everest. We drive over the Pang La, which will hopefully give us our first good views of Everest, some 40 miles away. Then we descend to a village in the valley floor, and continue up the valley to base camp. The road becomes rougher and rougher, but the scenery becomes more spectacular as we round each corner. Finally there is the awesome north face of Everest, at the head of the valley before us. From base camp, it does seem very close, but it is still 12 miles away.
Day 11-14:Acclimatisation and local exploration.
We are based on Everest Base Camp for four days. This gives us plenty of time to enjoy the views, photograph Everest and crucially, to allow our bodies adapt to the altitude. Typically, teams will walk down the valley to Rongbuk Monastery, 5 miles / 8 km away, practice ropework, crampon and ice axe skills on a nearby snow patch and make an initial acclimatisation trek to Japanese Camp. However, it is important not to overdo it during this period - there will be plenty of opportunity for exertion later! We must work at resting, while drinking plenty of fluids and enjoying the base camp food.
Day 15:Move to Japanese Camp (5,500m).
At last, we set off on foot towards Everest. The trek to Japanese Camp starts easily enough, crossing the pebble flood plain of the Rongbuk River, then weaving along a good path between the glacier and the valley side. After about 2 hours we reach a good viewpoint, then turn steeply up to the left, leaving the main Rongbuk Valley. This takes us up into what seems to be a fairly small subsidiary valley, where Japanese camp is located, above the river and in a pleasant and sunny spot (3 hours).
Day 16:Move to Changtse Base Camp (5,800m).
The valley now opens up to reveal the amazing pinnacles of the East Rongbuk Glacier. It was the discovery of this approach in 1922 that provided the key to climbing this side of Everest. Crossing some streams and moraine hills, we gain the opposite side of the valley and contour along it to join the aptly named Magic Highway. This is an unlikely river of moraine that flows right through the middle of the treacherous ice pinnacles of the East Rongbuk Glacier. The route is surprisingly easy walking, although the altitude makes it hard work! The re-appearance of Everest is a pleasant distraction, and we can now see the whole of the North East Ridge, from the Raphu La to the summit. This is an immense mountain! The Highway finally drifts in toward the east ridge of Changtse, where a lake often forms. We camp here below the final steepening which leads to advance base camp (6 hours).
Day 17:Trek to Advance Base Camp (6,350m).
The Magic Highway is an unlikely river of moraine that flows right through the middle of the treacherous ice pinnacles of the East Rongbuk Glacier. The route is surprisingly easy walking, although the altitude makes it hard work! The re-appearance of Everest is a pleasant distraction, and we can now see the whole of the North East Ridge, from the Raphu La to the summit. To the left of the Glacier we will get our first view of Lakpa Ri, one of several summits lining the ridge to the east. The Highway finally drifts in toward the east ridge of Changtse, where a lake often forms. We continue a little further to our ABC on the moraine directly opposite Lhakpa Ri, which rises just across the glacier (3 hours).
Day 18-20:At leisure at Advance Base Camp.
Once again we will be working at resting, avoiding any form of exertion, getting up late and drinking and eating as much as we can force down. It is quite normal to feel the initial symptoms of altitude sickness, though these should pass after a couple of nights. Once we are comfortable with the altitude, we can walk up to Everest ABC an hour or so up the glacier, and perhaps on to the glacier below the North Col. This is a real treat for those familiar with the epic stories and characters of the early attempts on Everest during the 1920s - little has changed since then although there might be a few more people around! Also recommended is a hike across the almost level East Rongbuk Glacier to the Raphu La, which is a fantastic viewpoint for Makalu, Kangchenjunga and the Kangshung Face of Everest. We will also get a good look at our route up Lhakpa Ri, and will continue to practice our rope skills.
Day 21:Climb Lhakpa Ri (7,045m).
We make an early start from ABC and set off across the glacier. There are few crevasses and the going is easy until we reach the very foot of the slopes leading up to the ridge to the north of the summit. Most of the route is about 20 - 30 degrees steep, but it is a long flog and a hard day. However, the views and the situation will be worth it! The team will move together in roped groups of 4 - 5 people per rope, as the angle does not warrant the use of fixed ropes. The snow slope leads to the gently angled north ridge, on the other side of which is the Kharta Glacier, up which Mallory climbed to get his first view of the east side of the North Col of Everest. The ridge leads up to the summit of Lhakpa Ri. Weather permitting, there will be unbelievable views of Everest just across the glacier, Makalu to the south and a host of other peaks from Cho Oyu to Kangchenjunga. No doubt we will be tempted to linger for some time, taking in the view and identifying the host of summits, some below us, but most of them above! We descend to ABC by the same route.
Day 22:Rest day.
A rest day will no doubt be welcome after our ascent of Lhakpa Ri. In the afternoon, we will organise our equipment for the North Col climb the following day.
Day 23:Climb to the North Col (7,066m).
Under the supervision of the expedition leader and Sherpas, we make another early start from ABC and set off for the North Col. The moraine continues up the side of the glacier, close to the flank of Changtse, then we break out onto the glacier. There are few crevasses and the going is easy until we reach the very foot of the slopes leading up to the col. The entire route to the col is fixed with ropes and these provide security and assistance as we weave up between seracs of ice. Most of the route is about 20 - 40 degrees steep, but there are usually some short steeper sections. The height gain up the headwall to the col is only 300m, but it will take a long time and be an exceptionally hard day. However, the views and the situation will be worth it! Weather permitting; there will be unbelievable views across the north face, up the North Ridge to the summit, and westwards towards Pumori and Cho Oyu. After taking photos and having had a good rest, we head back down to ABC, having truly rubbed our noses in Everest!
Day 24:Spare day.
A spare day is included in case we need more time to acclimatise, or if we are held back by the weather. Alternatively, we may complete either of the climbs earlier.
Day 25:Return to Base Camp.
This is a long hike all the way back to base camp. At least it is downhill! Once at base camp, the air will feel comparatively thick, and we can enjoy our final evening in the shadow of Everest.
Day 26:Drive to Zhangmu.
This is a remarkable road journey across the Tibetan plateau, with excellent views of Everest, Cho Oyu and Shishapangma. We drop down through a river gorge to Zhangmu. Overnight in a hotel.
Day 27:Drive to the Nepalese Border and Kathmandu.
We make an early start for the short drive to Tibet's border with Nepal. From here, a 6-hour journey in a private bus takes us through Nepal's verdant valleys to Kathmandu and a warm welcome at the Summit Hotel.
Day 28:At leisure in Kathmandu.
Time for some last minute shopping and sightseeing, before our journey home.
Day 29:Fly Kathmandu to London.

IMPORTANT NOTE: Every effort will be made to keep to the above itinerary, but as this is Adventure Travel in a remote mountain region, we cannot guarantee it. Weather conditions, road conditions, vehicle breakdowns and the health of climbers can all contribute to changes. The Expedition Leader and our local agent will try to ensure that the trip runs according to plan, but an easy going nature will be an asset!

Acclimatisation

Approximate altitude profile of Lhakpa Ri & The North Col: Lhakpa Ri & The North Col altitude profile, 16 kb
Please note: This profile does not represent the gradient of the mountain!

Leadership

Qualified and experienced mountain guides or mountaineering instructors lead all of our expeditions. In selecting suitable leaders, we not only look to ensure that they have the relevant qualifications but we also ensure that they have a good track record of mountaineering at high altitudes. Whilst qualifications and experience are essential requirements, we also make sure that our leaders have the right temperament to lead an expedition comprised of individuals who have a range of previous experience and expectations. To that end, we aim to provide a leader who will make the expedition both successful and enjoyable throughout.

The Lhakpa Ri and The North Col expedition will be led by one of our most experienced expedition leaders. He or she will smooth the way through all the travel hurdles encountered along the way, and make sure that everyone is healthy and acclimatised, and ready for the climbs. On the climbs the leader will make all decisions based on the needs of the group as a whole. The leader will be summit focussed but not at the expense of safety, which has precedence at all times.

Team Composition

The team will comprise a western leader, together with up to 12 members. Depending on team numbers, another western leader may be appointed. There will also be several Nepalese climbing Sherpas, selected from our regular high altitude team. Together with the leader, they will lead roped groups so that there are no more than 3 climbers with each leader or Sherpa.

Experience Required

Lhakpa Ri & The North Col is graded 2C.

With the exception of the summit day on Lhakpa Ri (which could never be considered just 'trekking') and the climb to the North Col from Advance Base Camp, the expedition is a trek, though the remoteness (especially in August when no teams are on Everest) and altitude should be considered. Even though the carefully planned itinerary provides time for acclimatisation, the extreme altitude may be a problem for slow acclimatisers. Participants should therefore have been to altitudes of 5,000m before and be reasonably confident that they are able to acclimatise in the time available. For most people, this should not be a problem, but if you have had difficulty acclimatising before, you may not be able to reach advance base camp at 6,350m, which is notorious for high altitude sickness.

In addition to remote trekking and altitude experience, team members need to have snow and ice climbing experience and be competent at abseiling (rappelling). If you have not done any such climbing before, you will need to complete a Scottish Winter Course or an Alpine course. This expedition is therefore suitable for reasonably experienced climbers who are looking for non-technical ascents in a challenging environment. Tibet, with its incessant wind, is a tough place to be and while the climbs are not difficult, the conditions and remoteness make this a committing undertaking!

Pre-Expedition Meeting

Prior to all our expeditions, we host a Pre-Expedition Weekend in North Wales. The primary purpose of the weekend is to provide an opportunity for individuals to ask questions about the forthcoming expedition and to introduce them to other team members. The weekend covers topics as diverse as personal equipment and acclimatisation and usually involves a hike and some skills training. To find out more about our Pre-Expedition Weekends [click here].

Equipment

Find out about our comprehensive Equipment Hire Service.

To join the Lhakpa Ri and The North Col expedition you need the following specialist equipment:

A complete climbing equipment and clothing list is included in the expedition dossier, which is sent to you on booking along with details of our Equipment Hire Service. You are welcome to contact us if you have any questions about the equipment necessary for the expedition.

What the price includes

What the price does not include

Insurance

Special travel insurance is available from us which provides a wide range of cover. Our 'Expedition only' premium for this expedition is detailed in the Prices & Booking section. A full explanation of the Jagged Globe Insurance Scheme is available on the website and in our brochure.

Additional Information

If you wish to discuss any aspect of the expedition or your suitability for it, please contact us by telephone:

Alternatively, you can contact us by email via the Contact Page on the website.

Booking

If you would like to book a place on this expedition, you can do so on our secure on-line booking facility, on our website. The £300 deposit for this expedition will secure you a place on your chosen departure. You will receive an automatic email confirmation, followed by a written confirmation of booking, climbing questionnaire and Expedition Dossier. Alternatively, you can book over the telephone or by sending in a booking form by post. Book Now!