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Expeditions to the 8000 metre Peaks

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Shishapangma

Altitude 8,027m/26,335ft » Duration 44 Days » Grade 4E

This Tibetan giant is one of the most straightforward and accessible of the 8,000m peaks

Introduction

Before the Chinese opened Tibet to western mountaineers in 1978, little was known about Shishapangma. The only 8,000m peak to lie entirely in Tibet, it lies tantalisingly close to the Nepalese border, shrouded behind the great, but less high, border peaks of Langtang. Enterprising individuals sought mere glimpses of it during the period that other 8,000m peaks were receiving their first ascents! It is perhaps not surprising that it was the last of the 8,000m peaks to be climbed. Not that its ascent by the North-West Ridge presents any great difficulty. On the contrary, it is now regarded as one of the most straightforward 8,000m climbs and its summit is frequently achieved.

Regarded as a 'holy' mountain by the local Tibetan population, and lying on the route to Mt. Kailash, Shishapangma continues to baffle us. Historians cannot fathom her names - Shishapangma, Xixabangma, Gosainthan, and surveyors seem unable to fix her height (anything from 8,012m to 8,046m). Even the first ascent by the Chinese in 1964 is questioned, due to the lack of photographic evidence and the fact that the summit ridge sports several subsidiary 'summits'. Yet, the mountain is perhaps the most accessible of her genre, rising only a few miles west of the Kathmandu-Lhasa Highway. It was 16 years before the mountain received its second ascent, by a West German team in 1980, and it has been climbed every year since.

The Expedition

This expedition is not a "guided" ascent. It will be a professionally led team of competent mountaineers who have enough experience to climb one of the world's highest mountains without undue risk. This approach ensures that team members are suitably experienced, reasonably self-sufficient and capable and willing to move between camps unsupervised. You will still have a high level of support, starting with strong, confident leadership; this will maximise your chances of success without undermining the quality of your achievement.

If you have the necessary experience and wish to participate fully as a team member of an expertly led expedition to one of the world's highest mountains, this could be the trip for you!

The Climb

Following our time spent in Lhasa, we embark on the remainder of the journey to Chinese base camp. Several hours' driving leads us up, steeply, onto the expanse of the Tibetan plateau, crossing the Lalung La (5,050metres) en route. This pass is festooned with Buddhist prayer flags, a symbol of the religious fervour of the local Tibetans, and the visiting Sherpas, despite many years of occupation and religious persecution by the Chinese. From the pass there are excellent views of Shishapangma and particularly the North-West Ridge. After a short time we eventually leave the Lhasa highway and head west on bumpy roads towards Mount Kailash. The journey to base camp takes 4-5 hours as it winds itself around Shishapangma across the Tibetan plain, eventually approaching the mountain directly from the north. The day's journey ends at Chinese base camp, which is situated at 5,000 metres. It is here that the Chinese and Tibetan Mountaineering Associations establish their headquarters for the climb. It is also where our Liaison Officer (LO) resides for the duration of the expedition. It is in a spectacular position offering superb views of the mountain and the ridge in ever-changing light and colour. From here a further two days are spent acclimatising in the local hills which is invaluable preparation for the trek to advance base camp (ABC). At the same time preparations are made for transporting all the expedition equipment by Yak to ABC which lies some 12 miles up the Yambughangala valley. The previous evening and morning of departure to ABC are accompanied by the clamour of bells, shouts and whistles while the Sirdar and yak drivers argue over the loads (the traditional process!). This is the best time to depart early with a light load for the gentle but long amble towards the mountain. There are several options here but it is just as well to keep low and follow the glacier river rather than ascend the more gentler and appealing slopes in front of you and then having to suddenly descend several hours later!

ABC is situated just at the snout of the glacier on the west side of the moraine at around 5,600m. It is relatively flat and accommodating, with many old prayer flags strewn from previous Puja altars. After a couple of day's rest we begin our ascent of the mountain in earnest with a trip to depot camp. This is an intermediate camp, which is generally used at the beginning of the expedition for storing equipment such as plastic boots, food, axes etc. It follows closely the main moraine from ABC, and although situated at 5,800m, the height gain is more significant because of the up and down nature of the terrain. Initially the journey takes 3-4 hours but improves significantly after further acclimatisation. Depot camp provides an early introduction to the crossing of the penitentes (ice pinnacles) which bar the way to camp 1. It also provides a base from which we practice the use of crampons, the ascent of fix ropes and crevasse rescue.

During this time our Sherpas operate in support and do most of the bulk of the load carrying, especially to the top camp. After a couple of day's rest we make our way to camp 1 which lies on a broad plateau at 6,440m. Having crossed the penitentes and onto the main snow slopes there is little objective danger, and fixed ropes are in place on the more crevassed areas. The route to camp 1 is never steep but conditions can get hot so we leave early in the morning! It is usual to establish the camp as far back on the snow shoulder as possible and the journey from ABC takes around 5-7 hours. The following morning sees an early start and a steep ascent of the snow slopes which lead onto the upper glacier emanating from the Col. The top of this headwall (situated around 6800m) takes around 3 hours to reach. It gives splendid views of the north face of Shishapangma and gives the impression that the summit looks easily attainable! We descend back to camp 1 and eventually ABC for a well-deserved rest.

Improved acclimatisation and greater familiarity makes the prospect of subsequent climbing less daunting, but the challenge remains physically tough each time we make the journey above ABC. Rest and treks on nearby spires provide further high altitude acclimatisation whilst the Sherpas are working hard to establish camp 2 towards the end of the Col at 7,050m. This usually requires them to make two journeys from camp 1 carrying tents, fuel and cooking equipment. Each team member carries his/her own personal loads, which allows them to remain reasonably fresh and ensures that the effort of load carrying does not physically exhaust the team. Load carrying and periods of rest are balanced to ensure that climbers reach the optimum level of acclimatisation and physical fitness immediately before the summit attempts. At ABC we are given a prolonged period of rest of at least 3-4 days before moving up to occupy camp 2 in readiness for the ultimate climb to the top. Camps on the mountain are located at:

Camp 1 - 6,400 metres
Camp 2 - 7,050 metres

Depending on the acclimatisation of the team members and the weather conditions, there is an option to place a camp 3 at 7,400 metres, but this would involve significant additional load carrying requirements from ABC. In our experience and following our acclimatisation programme, we have not found it necessary to establish this camp.

Camp 2 is about 5-7 hours above camp 1 and involves a short but steep ascent followed by a gentler climb, usually in deeper snow, to the Col below the North-West Ridge. Once in camp 2 we must make every effort to prepare for the following day. This means drinking, eating and resting. In order to function effectively on summit day, it is vital to drink as much as possible and this involves a big effort since the altitude makes the easiest physical work very demanding and the task of boiling water and getting ready slower than usual. However, we must resist the temptation to relent and to relax as drinking and eating, in order to replenish the calories lost during the climb so far, is the highest priority if we are to be successful in our ambition of climbing Shishapangma.

Summit day begins early as it takes several hours to make breakfast, to drink adequately and to get fully equipped before leaving the tent. We usually leave so as to reach the shoulder at 7,400m around first light. Once on our way we have a steep but easy snow climb to the shoulder before gaining the ridge itself. There are several rock bands and steep snow slopes to cross, with the more difficult of these being well protected with fixed ropes. As in previous expeditions we stay on the ridge to the top and hence avoid the more exposed snow slopes that veer off towards the main summit (the original Chinese route). The views from the summit provide a magnificent vista, which includes Everest and Lhoste, as well as Cho Oyu, to name but a few of the highest peaks. Reaching the summit takes between 8-12 hours depending on the conditions with a descent by the same route. Nights are spent at camp 2 and camp 1.

Safety and the Conduct of the Climb

Although many people have now climbed Shishapangma, the mountain and its potential dangers deserve respect by all those attempting it. Reaching the summit late in the day would be a serious mistake and our guides will ensure that sensible timings are adhered to. The aim of our expedition will be to get as many team members as possible to the summit. However, this will not be to the detriment of safety. Safety will govern all decision making on the mountain and will be based on the sound mountaineering judgement of our highly experienced mountain guides. To support our guides on the mountain, we at Jagged Globe will plan the expedition as thoroughly and carefully as possible using our own experience and knowledge of the mountain to maximum benefit. Ultimately, the leader will have sole discretion on the implementation of any plan to climb the mountain and he will ensure that safety remains the prime consideration.

The high mountains of the Himalaya, and Shishapangma in particular, are there for us to climb and to enjoy. Our priority will be to enable all team members to fulfil their potential on the mountain and to come home safely having had a life enhancing experience. Whether or not expedition members reach the top, the expedition should be an enjoyable and rewarding achievement that will form the basis of many long cherished memories and friendships.

Expedition Itinerary

Day 1:Fly from London Heathrow to Kathmandu.
Day 2:Arrive in Kathmandu.
We are met at the airport and taken to the Summit Hotel. This is an excellent hotel positioned well away from the bustle of the city centre and its friendly staff do their best to make you feel at home. It has extensive gardens and a swimming pool. For those joining the expedition in Kathmandu, all team members should aim to meet at the hotel on this day.
Day 3:At leisure in Kathmandu.
There will be time for us to explore the bazaars, shops and monasteries of this fascinating city. The expedition leader will also examine everyone's climbing equipment so that any shortfalls can be purchased in Kathmandu prior to flying to Tibet. Chinese Visas allowing entry to Tibet will also be issued by the Chinese Embassy in Kathmandu.
Day 4:Fly to Lhasa.
If the weather is clear the flight will give extraordinary views of the Himalaya, including Everest, Makalu and Kangchenjunga. We should also get a good view from the air of the Kangshung valley. On arrival in Lhasa, we will be met and taken to a good standard hotel close to the city centre. This will be our base for the next few days while we acclimatise to the high altitude of the Tibetan plateau (Lhasa is one of the highest capitals in the world at 3,600m/12,000ft).
Day 5-6:At leisure in Lhasa.
While acclimatising, we will make the most of our time in Lhasa and visit the Potala Palace, the Dalai Lama's summer palace and perhaps one or two monasteries outside the city. Lhasa is a fascinating place, the indigenous Tibetan people and architecture contrasting strongly with the imposed Chinese influence.
Day 7:Drive to Shigatse (6 hours).
We set off in jeeps across the Tibetan plateau. Soon after leaving Lhasa, we reach the banks of the Tsang Po, which becomes the Brahmaputra River when it enters India. We drive up-stream for a while before turning southwest through barren desert-like valleys to reach Shigatse, Tibet's second city. Overnight in a hotel. Altitude: 3,900m.
Day 8:Drive to Xegar (8 hours).
As we continue along the Tibetan highway, the northern edge of the Greater Himalaya comes into view, often providing a spectacular panorama of peaks, including Everest. We overnight in a hotel 7 kilometres outside the main town of Xegar. If there is time, we may be able to visit the main town and its hilltop monastery. Altitude: 4,000m.
Day 9:Acclimatisation Day.
This is an important day which will help is cope with the big height gain to Chinese base camp tomorrow. The general advice is to take it easy, but a visit the main town and a gentle hike up to its hilltop monastery (4,200m) are highly recommended.
Day 10:Drive to Shishapangma base camp
Magnificent views of Shishapangma and many other mountains make today's road journey an unforgettable one. After crossing the Thang La (5,200m) we turn off the Lhasa highway and head west along the road to Mount Kailash for a further 25 km. Turning south onto an even smaller track, we eventually arrive at base camp (5,000m). This is situated close to the Yambughangala River, which drains the north side of Shishapangma.
Day 11-12:Base camp preparation
Our first couple of days at base camp are spent preparing our equipment and organising loads for the yaks. These are also important days for our acclimatisation, as we will all feel the effects of living at 5,000 metres and we need to be in good shape for the long route to advance base camp.
Day 13:Move to Advanced Base Camp
After loading up the yaks with all of our equipment we set off with them on the 12 mile/20 kilometre trek to advance base camp (ABC). Initially we follow a jeep track to a plateau above the river and then the west bank of the valley to ABC near the snout of the Yambughangala Glacier (5,600m). This is in a very impressive situation, with the giant white pinnacles of the glacier leading up the valley to Shishapangma. Here we unload the yaks and set up the camp, which is the take-off point for the climb. From here the Sherpas have to do most of the load carrying.
Day 14-38:The Climb
Above ABC we will place two or three camps depending on conditions. The climb starts with a long traverse leading to a large camping area at 6,400m. From here we traverse further, gaining a lot of height, to reach the shoulder of the mountain and camp 2 (7,000m). All of the climbing is on scree or snow and presents little difficulty. The North-West Ridge is easily reachable from camp 2, although it may involve snow and ice climbing up to 50° steep. Fixed ropes are placed on all steep/crevassed sections. If a high camp is required, it is placed according to the prevailing conditions. The summit ridge is very long and it is usual to take a rising diagonal line across the snow slope below it to reach the ridge as close to the summit as possible. The West Summit (8,008m) of Shishapangma is quicker to reach than the main summit and is the usual point reached by 'summiteers'. Plenty of time has been allowed in case of bad weather and slow acclimatisation. We intend to have enough time at the end of the expedition to make a complete withdrawal from the mountain, removing all equipment and rubbish and taking it back to ABC.
Day 39:Return to base camp
All expedition members and equipment need to be back at base camp by today, ready for our departure tomorrow. Once again, yaks are used to transport all expedition equipment from ABC to base camp.
Day 40:Depart Tibet
Our transport arrives for the return trip to Nepal. We hope to cross the Friendship Bridge in the afternoon and either camp or stay at one of the roadside lodges in Tatopani.
Day 41:Arrive in Kathmandu
Drive to Kathmandu and the welcome delights of the Summit Hotel.
Day 42:Arrive at Summit Hotel in Kathmandu
We complete the drive to Kathmandu and the welcome delights of the Summit Hotel. The hotel bar is kept well stocked!
Day 43:At leisure in Kathmandu at the Summit Hotel
In the evening, we have our farewell celebration and expedition dinner.
Day 44:Depart from Kathmandu
Day 45:Arrive home
Team members travelling back to the UK arrive at London Heathrow mid-morning.

PLEASE NOTE: The above itinerary is not a fixed programme but is intended to give an indication of the likely events during the expedition. Please note that because of the nature of mountaineering on 8,000m peaks, it will be necessary to have a flexible plan in order to take the best advantage of situations as they present themselves. Any changes to the itinerary will be made with a view to maximising the benefit to the team members and of ensuring their eventual success on the mountain.

Acclimatisation

We consider early acclimatisation a very important aspect of preparation for the climb. Once the expedition crosses the border from Nepal into Tibet, it would be possible to drive straight onto the Tibetan plateau. Many expeditions choose to do this and spend only one night at rest during the ascent. This is usually at Nyalam, which is an unpleasant and cold place. This regime places expeditions' members at early risk to the symptoms of altitude sickness which, although subsequently overcome by resting at the road-head (Chinese base camp), means that team members get off to a less than advantageous start once on the mountain.

In contrast, we drive from the border at Xangmu, through Nyalam to a campsite located near a Tibetan village at about 3,900 metres. We have used this site many times before and it is an ideal and pleasant camp for acclimatisation training. The surrounding hills are wonderful; providing plenty of walking and climbing with objectives from 5,000 to 6,500 metres. During our time here, the emphasis will not be on hard physical exertion as team members will be encouraged to adopt their own, preferred agenda for acclimatisation. However, the expedition leader will organise daily walks with the aim of "climbing high and sleeping low" so that a sensible pace of acclimatisation is achieved for all of the team. We have found that this sets a firm foundation for subsequent acclimatisation and allows all team members to tackle the Shishapangma climb with greater confidence.

Approximate altitude profile of Shishapangma: Shishapangma altitude profile, 13 kb
Please note: This profile does not represent the gradient of the mountain!

Leadership

All of our expeditions are led by qualified and experienced mountain guides or mountaineering instructors. In selecting suitable leaders, we not only look to ensure that they have the relevant qualifications but we also ensure that they have a good track record of mountaineering at high altitudes. Whilst qualifications and experience are essential requirements, we also make sure that our leaders have the right temperament to lead an expedition comprised of individuals who have a range of previous experience and expectations. To that end, we aim to provide a leader who will make the expedition both successful and enjoyable throughout.

All of our leaders are personally known to us, having normally led several expeditions for us previously. They are familiar with what we expect from them and how we like them to run expeditions on our behalf. Their main aim during the expedition will be to ensure that you derive optimum benefit from taking part in the climb and to maximise every individual's chances of reaching the summit. However, as experienced and qualified mountaineers, they will always operate with safety as the prime consideration. In the past, the careful selection of our expedition leaders has proved to be a major asset in the continuing success of our expeditions and the overall enjoyment of the team members taking part.

Our leaders also hold a current mountain first aid certificate and have experience of dealing with the symptoms of acute mountain sickness and other altitude related illness.

Team Composition

The expedition leader will be supported by up to 5 hand-picked Sherpas. Depending on final team numbers, a second guide may be appointed.

Sherpas

We provide a high degree of Sherpa support for the expedition to Shishapangma. There is a minimum of 2 high-altitude Sherpas and, as numbers increase no less than 1 Sherpa to every 2 team members.

The Sherpas take the strain of supplying camps on the mountain allowing team members to save their strength for the climb itself rather than expending it through load carrying. The Sherpas are selected from the strongest of those used on our past expeditions and the Sirdar (the Sherpa leader) is a veteran of Shishapangma itself.

The Sherpa staff also includes a cook and kitchen assistants to help with the running of base camp.

Experience Required

Shishapangma is graded 4E.

Our Shishapangma expedition is suitable for experienced mountaineers.

To join us on Shishapangma, you will need to be fully conversant with mountaineering techniques. Ideally, you will have completed Alpine climbs equivalent of AD and have prior altitude experience of around 6,000m. Climbers who have achieved ascents of mountains such as Island Peak, Huascaran, Illimani, Denali or similar, could well consider Shishapangma if they have the necessary commitment and determination.

All team members will need to be in excellent physical condition if they are to have a realistic chance of staying strong right up to the summit. Climbing an 8,000m peak is a tough test of endurance; both physical and psychological, so you need to make sure that you are prepared for the effort required to sustain the duration of the expedition. Advice on physical preparation for the expedition is given in the expedition dossier, which is posted to you on receipt of your booking deposit.

All members are asked to bear in mind that they are part of a team. As such, individuals will be encouraged to observe the customary expedition conventions of team-work and mutual support.
Our Scottish Winter Courses and our Alpine Courses provide good skills preparation for an expedition.

Equipment

Find out about our comprehensive Equipment Hire Service.

All mountaineering equipment, including ropes, fixing gear, tents, stoves and fuel will be brought from the UK. Climbers need to provide their own personal equipment, including:

We can provide assistance with obtaining equipment not normally stocked by retail outlets. Some items of equipment are available for hire from us but, for this expedition, we strongly recommend that you purchase your own personal equipment and test it before departure.

A complete climbing equipment and clothing list is included in the expedition dossier, which is sent to you on booking along with details of our Equipment Hire Service.

What the price includes

What the price does not include

Insurance

Special travel insurance is available from us which provides a wide range of cover. Our 'Expedition only' premium for this expedition is detailed in the Prices & Booking section. A full explanation of the Jagged Globe Insurance Scheme is available on the website and in our brochure.

Additional Information

If you wish to discuss any aspect of the expedition or your suitability for it, please contact us by telephone:

Alternatively, you can contact us by email via the Contact Page on the website.

Booking

If you would like to book a place on this expedition, you can do so on our secure on-line booking facility, on our website. The £800 deposit for this expedition will secure you a place on your chosen departure. You will receive an automatic email confirmation, followed by a written confirmation of booking, climbing questionnaire and Expedition Dossier. Alternatively, you can book over the telephone or by sending in a booking form by post. Book Now!