Latest News

Bolivian Climber - 100% on Pequeno Alpamayo

We currently have two expeditions climbing in Bolvia. Yesterday, Adele Pennington texted us from the summit of Pequeno Alpamayo (5,400m) to report that all 10 of her team had topped out. They are now travelling Huayna Potosi base camp to attempt the first of the two 6,000m peak objectives of the expedition. The other group, led by Tracey Wright, arrive back in the UK this weekend. We'll post up news from their adventure next week. [read more about Bolivian Climber]

Adele in The Star

Jagged Globe expedition leader, Adele Pennington, was interviewed in the Sheffield Star this week. Adele recalls an horrific accident she had years ago in the Alps, and her joy of reaching the summit of Everest this year, as a leader on our expedition. You can read the article on-line... [read more]

Last minute.Alps

Here's the latest up-to-date availability on our summer Alpine Courses.

Alpine Introduction - 26 July (3 places)
Alpine Introduction - 30 August (1 place)
Alpine Introduction - 13 September (3 places)
Haute Route - 16 August (3 places)
Oberland 4,000ers - 2 August (1 place)
Saas 4,000ers - 30 August (1 place)
Mont Blanc Summit - 13 September (1 place)
The Bocchette Way - 2 August (1 place)
The Bocchette Way - 9 August (1 place)

That's it folks! For more information and on-line booking... [read more]

100% success on Alpamayo

A tired group of 13 arrived at our hotel in Lima for a much needed rest after a long flight, extended due to poor weather over the Atlantic. This had meant a detour north and a refuelling in Bogotá, which added 3 hours to the journey.

The following day saw us on our way to Huaraz by coach, travelling initially along the Pacific coast on a road seemingly cut into the enormous sand dunes plunging into the ocean. For lunch we enjoyed a good selection of fish and meat and a chance to stretch our legs. We arrived at the Columba Hotel at around 5pm. This is a delightful place with an oasis in the form of a very relaxing garden. It is a 10-minute walk into the town, which has quite a vibrant feel and certainly is well provided with places to eat.

Our acclimatisation peaks were Inshinca and Urus Este, both over 5,000m. These were climbed by most of the team, two or three who were acclimatising more slowly, took the opportunity to rest at base camp. We then returned to Huaraz to rest, eat and prepare for Alpamayo. A short coach journey of 2hrs. And a lovely trek to Llamacorral to spend a night surrounded by the donkeys who had carried our kit. The following day gave us tantalising views of some of the mountains the Andes are justly famous for. These crenulated ridges and ice-fluted faces are certainly impressive with their knife-edged and often double-corniced ridges.

The base camp is set in a superb area with trees for shade, grass to pitch tents and surrounded on three sides by big peaks (Alpamayo being one). We had a days rest at BC and then two hard days up to a high camp on the col beneath Alpamayo. We climbed this over two days, 10 of the group summiting and then 2 the following day. A 100% success on what has been described as ‘the most beautiful mountain in the world’. A happy team enjoyed some well earned R&R back in Huaraz. Many thanks must go to Damian Aurelio Vargas and his excellent team of guides who were both helpful and friendly throughout the trip. [read more about Alpamayo]

More Mont Blanc Summits

Louise Grimster has just returned from a successful climb of Mont Blanc on Wednesday, following on from her Alpine Introduction course. Louise had this to say about the guides:

"I can't speak highly enough of the guides/instructors, especially Matt Helliker. Matt was absolutely amazing, especially on the Mont Blanc extension when I was roped to him. He had a way of increasing my confidence and getting the very best out of me, and I am so thankful to Matt for making the Mont Blanc summit such a wonderful experience. "

Over in Saas Grund, Martin Turner also had high praise for our guides this week:

"I must reserve my greatest thanks to our guide, Tomas Jakofcic, who greatly impressed me with his in-depth knowledge of the mountains, coupled with a professional attitude of the highest standard. Both qualities I suppose should be expected of any mountain guide, but he combined them with a very likeable and easy-going personality off the mountain, which made the week far more enjoyable than I could ever have expected.

I gained great confidence in my alpine climbing during my week in Saas, which was in no small measure due to Tomas's patient tutelage. I feel very lucky to have had Tomas as our guide and look forward (savings permitting) to booking a week in Zermatt next year.

[read more]

Mont Blanc summited yesterday

Andy Perkins IFMGA just called in after a successful ascent of Mont Blanc yesterday. Father and son team, Richard and Oli [see photo] climbed through deep snow from the Cosmiques Hut in a 14-hour day which they described as the toughest of their lives. Andy reports that "conditions on mixed and snowy things are ace just now". Great news for teams arriving on Jagged Globe courses this forthcoming week. If you would like to join us in Arolla on our Alpine Introduction course, we even have a couple of spaces. [read more about Alpine Summer Private Guiding]

Scrambling report

Ray Hill has submitted a report and photos from a recent Scrambling Weekend course with Ed Chard:

"Day 1. Saturday's wet weather could not spoil the delights of Tryfan's Heather Terrace and scramble up Little Gully and North Gully to the North Ridge and summit rocks of A&E. Leaving the clouds and the crowds behind Ed snaked his way through the tumbled field of boulders to a small cliff on the western flank for some abseil practice. Then back through the south col, to return along Heather Terrace. A fantastic way to end day one, and a great start to the weekend..." [read more] or [read more about Scrambling Weekend]

IKAR/UIAA approved MClinSci/PGDip/PGCert Mountain Medicine

Organised by Medical Expeditions; Accredited by the University of Leicester

The IKAR/UIAA Diploma is an internationally recognised qualification in all aspects of mountain medicine
This course involves tuition in: Altitude and Environmental Medicine; Travel and Expedition Medicine; Mountain Rescue and Traumatology; Personal Mountaineering Skills; Mountain Medicine Research
The next course starts in December 2008 and consists of 4 periods of tuition and assessment over one or two years, with additional time for personal study. Candidates should already possess some climbing and mountaineering skills, or be prepared to develop these in parallel with the Diploma course
The course faculty includes an international panel of speakers and leading altitude physicians
The Diploma is recognised as a postgraduate award from the University of Leicester, with the possibility of extending this to a Masters degree

Further information can be obtained from: Caroline Clay, Department of Infection, Immunity and Inflammation, Level 5, RKCSB, Leicester Royal Infirmary, Leicester LE2 7LX.
Email: cc44@le.ac.uk
Telephone: 0116 258 6844.
Medical Expeditions is a charitable company limited by guarantee, registered in Scotland. Registered Office: 4 Balcarres Court, Edinburgh E10 5JL. Company Number: 00140415 (Scotland). Charitable Number: SC02092. 169787

Mountain Medicine and High Altitude Physiology Conference - 5 to 7 Dec '08

At the National Mountain Centre, Plas Y Brenin, Capel Curig, Gwynedd, North Wales. Organiser: Dr P W Barry, University of Leicester, in association with Medical Expeditions

PGEA approval applied for - Course Fee £550 (includes all meals; 2 nights’ accommodation; and a copy of High Altitude Medicine and Physiology by Milledge, West and Schoene)

The course has been running since 1993 covering mountain sickness and high altitude physiology; hypothermia; frostbite; management of trauma and medical emergencies in remote environment
An international panel of speakers will include leading altitude physiologists and physicians from around the world

Further information can be obtained from: Mountain Medicine, c/o Caroline Clay, Department of Child Health, Robert Kilpatrick, Clinical Sciences Building, Leicester Royal Infirmary, Leicester LE2 7LX.
Email: cc44@le.ac.uk
Telephone: 0116 258 6844.

Medical Expeditions is a charitable company limited by guarantee, registered in Scotland. Registered Office: 4 Balcarres Court, Edinburgh E10 5JL. Company Number: 00140415 (Scotland). Charitable Number: SC02092.

Saas 4,000ers photos

Here are a couple of photos, taken by IFMGA Guide, Alun Richardson, on our Saas 4,000ers course this week. The group had a superb time, reports Alun. For the next two weeks, it's Tomaz Jakofcic's turn in Saas, before Paul Farmer joins him on 26 July. During August, Steve Hartland is running two Saas 4,000ers courses until Mac Mackay (President of the British Mountain Guides Association) arrives 30 August. There's one spot left on Mac's course! [read more] or [read more about Saas 4000ers]

Rush Peak guaranteed

Our first Rush Peak and the Hunza Valley Trek is guaranteed and will be led by David Hamilton. This is a 2-week trek (30 Aug - 14 Sep) away from the busy spots, but in a really superb area of the Karakoram. If you would like to join the team, please get in touch with us soon. [read more about Rush Peak & The Hunza Valley]

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